NORTH SAILS BLOG

This guide is designed to add additional support information to sailors rigging their International Moth Helix sails for the first time. There are some fundamental differences with the Helix sail, ‘twin-skin’ split batten technology, compared to previous models. The Helix sail offers a large step forward in performance, however, there are some new learnings required when rigging, which once understood, is neither complicated nor time-consuming. Initial Set-Up When your sail arrives the following should be included: 1. 7 x Full Length Split Battens 2. 6 x Decksweeper battens – Glass RB 3. 13 x Rocket Adjusters 4. 6 x mast cups. Numbered 1-6 These battens should be cut to length and there should be no requirement to adjust the length of them. Please contact a North Sails representative if you feel the battens need to be adjusted. Any batten length adjustment should be off the back of the batten and not from the split end.   Batten lengths may vary +/-20mm These parts should be fitted, but if not, take the following steps:   Battens Step 1: Batten Cups The battens cups need to be threaded onto the webbing strap found inside the luff tube. The webbing strap prevents the cups from moving in a vertical direction whilst sailing, hence the cups grip onto the strap quite tightly. Once the cups are threaded onto the webbing strap, pass the strap down the luff tube, ensuring to remove any twists from the strap. The Cups may need adjusting slightly once you are rigged. Follow the impression of the batten along the batten pocket and aim to keep it aligned or fractionally on the high side of the pocket. The webbing strap may be overlength and can be cut to length – around the height of the boom. There is no requirement to locate the lower end of the strap. Step 2: Batten insertion Batten #1 The top batten doesn’t have a mast cup. There are however 2 batten pockets on the luff tube, one on each side. The split batten end needs to pass into each of these pockets. The batten pockets are offset so that each of the split tips can be inserted in turn. Put your hand up inside the luff tube from the zip at batten #2. Pass the tip of the #1 batten into the pockets on each side of the sail. This process can be slightly tricky but easily managed and only has to be done once. Batten #2 - #7 These battens are to be inserted from the rear end and then the split tip is inserted into the receptacles on the rear face of the cups. There are sacrificial pieces of plastic within these receptacles that are designed to break and distort to add friction to the batten and prevent it from falling out. The batten will need to be pushed firmly into the batten cup receptacle. At batten #7 there is a batten holder on each side of the luff tube. Each half of the batten needs to be passed through these. Add rocket batten tensioners to all battens. Step 3: Deck Sweeper Battens There are 6 x deck sweeper battens that can be fitted and rocket tensioners added. The diagonal deck sweeper battens are the only battens that need removing for de-rigging and sail rolling. Rigging Step 1 Insert the mast into the luff tube, as per all previous models, ensuring to pass the mast above the battens and not through any of the split battens. Note: Avoid wrapping the mast tip around the webbing strap At batten 7 there are batten holders on each side of the luff tube, the mast must pass in front of these. Once the mast tip reaches batten #2, the uppermost batten cup, ensure to thread this batten cup onto the mast (pushing the mast in front of the cup). Continue to push the tip of the mast into the head of the sail. Step 2 Shuffle the luff of the sail down the mast until you can see the forestay and spreader fittings. KEEP ALL BATTEN CUPS OFF THE RIG AT THIS STAGE (except for Batten #2 – cup #1) Step 3 Continue to rig the sail onto the boat. Attach the clew and boom vang. Some pre-bend will be required to attach the batten cups. Step 4 Once there is some pre-bend, achieved by some vang load, the next step is to put the batten cups onto the rig. Work from the top down, carefully putting each cup onto the rig. Normally twisting them slightly can help to get them on. Once all the cups are on, slide the luff tube downwards and attach the cunningham. De-Rigging Aim to do the above procedure in reverse. Remove cups from the rig before releasing the clew. This de-loads the sail and it's far easier to remove spreaders etc. Tuning & Race Set-Up Battens In general batten tension should increase from top to bottom. Aim for one or two small creases in batten #1, one crease in batten #2, half a crease in batten #3, and no creases in battens #4-7. Luff round and sail camber can be tailored with batten tension in the lower battens. Adjusting batten tension to different wind conditions will produce performance variation as the batten tension will increase camber. Batten cups When fully rigged with vang and cunningham loads @ 70% ensure the battens run along the batten pockets and the cups are not sitting too high or too low. Aim to have the batten and cup just high within the batten pocket. There are a few nuances to this new design, but once understood, rigging time is very similar to previous models. Please feel free to contact Rob Greenhalgh with any questions. READ MORE

Proper boat speed depends mostly on constant and consistent adjustments to your rig and sails. The following measurements are those we have found to be the fastest settings for your new North Sails. READ MORE

Quick Tuning Guides: N14-L18 Mainsail N13-L12 Mainsail N13-L16 Mainsail N12-L9B Mainsail N10-L5 main N10-L5(H) main N9-L5 main L5-N15 Mainsail See also: Tips for Adjusting the Bolt Rope on Your 470 Mainsail READ MORE

The Solo is a boat with a relatively simple rig. Once you are on the water there is little adjustment possible. It is essential therefore that you get the right rig settings before launching. When setting up a new boat you need to establish the following: Mast Foot Position In the past we suggested two mast foot positions, but in recent years when sailing in a mixed upwind/downwind race track I have found I liked the one setting for all conditions so this is what we would recommend. Measuring from the front edge of the mast foot to the outside edge of the transom should be as close to 3065mm as possible. Please see Fig 1, 1a, 1b showing how to take this measurement. PLEASE NOTE with this setting the boom will be lower, if you have limited mobility, sail at a venue where you are constantly tacking or on a club course with more offwind than upwind please feel free to move the heel aft to a setting nearer 3052 mm to keep the boom higher, make it easier to tack and bias performance more to downwind. Secondary to this is boats prior to approximately 2008 may struggle to move the heel forward to this measurement due to the bulkhead position. Fig 1 Fig 1a Fig 1b Mast Rake This is controlled by forestay tension. Set the forestay so its tight when the back of the mast hits the back of the mast gate, then release the forestay tension by 2 holes on the adjuster, this is the base rake. For those with a mast cutout [please check your mast manufacturer for warranty on this] you can set the average mast rake with a tape measure, should be set at 5940mm measured using a tape measure on the halyard hoisted to your black band and then to the top aft edge of your transom bar. To ensure the hoist of the halyard is at the correct height the tape should read 5030mm when held down the mast to the top of the gooseneck band, this is then at the correct hoist height and can easily be replicated, now you can proceed to measure the rake. See Fig 2 & 2a showing how to do this. Fig 2 Fig 2a Shroud Tension When the shrouds are just in tension the mast should be 5mm from the front of the gate. If you sail on flat water or are over 90kgs you can sail with tighter shrouds to limit sideways bend, in this case the shrouds can be in tension when the mast is 10mm from the front of the gate. Centreboard Position Turn the boat on it’s side and drop the board and mark the handle when the leading edge is vertical (LV), relative to the bottom of the case. Then lift the board until the trailing edge is vertical (TV) and mark the handle. Then mark the handle with 20mm spacings to guide when you lift the board further as the breeze builds. Mast Chock Use 1 x 10mm chock to be used as per the tuning matrix below. Control 0-5 knots  6-10 knots 11-16 knots 17+ knots Centreboard Leading edge vertical Trailing edge vertical 40mm up from TV mark 40-100mm up from TV mark Chock Chock behind mast Chock in front Chock in front Chock in front Kicker Slack In tension to stop boom Tension to control leech Max. kicker Outhaul 50mm depth in foot 100mm depth in foot 50-100mm depth in foot until overpowered then tension progressively Max. outhaul with crease along foot Inhaul 15mm from back of mast 10mm from back of mast 5mm from back of mast 0-5mm from back of mast Traveller Positioned so that boom end is over inboard edge of sidedeck Positioned so boom end is between inboard & outboard edge of sidedeck Positioned so boom end is over gunwhale, until overpowered then vang sheet and keep traveller on centreline On centreline Cunningham Slack Slack snug to remove larger wrinkles on luff Tension progressively to depower Tension to depower Because Solos are relatively easy to sail a boatspeed advantage is hard to find. The settings that have been used for this tuning guide are based around a Solo sailor weighing 8085kg using a Selden D+ mast and North Sail. However these settings still apply providing you use the correct mast and sail combination for your weight. The settings are dependent on sea state, weight, mast, sail and fitness. So in a force 3 a 90kg helm would be on full power settings whereas a 75kg helm with the same rig would be on overpowered settings. The overlap between settings can be achieved with a combination of rig, sail and centreboard adjustment. There are different ways to achieve the same result. If for example you are caught out with light/medium settings  in strong breeze raise the centreboard further, use more kicker tension (to bend the mast) cunningham and outhaul tension. Use a combination of mainsheet tension, kicker tension and traveller position to find the best speed upwind. As a general rule start in light winds with the traveller positioned so that the boom end is over the inboard edge of the sidetank and mainsheet tensioned so that all the leech tell tails are flying. As the wind increases use more mainsheet tension and ease the traveller to stop the boom getting too close to the centreline. Kicker tension in light winds should be set just slack so that it controls leech twist out of tacks. As the breeze increases and you have to ease the mainsheet to keep the boat flat use kicker to control the leech profile, and adjust the traveller (usually move inboard) to keep the boom roughly over the outside edge of the quarter. Once fully overpowered use kicker upwind to increase low down mast bend and flatten the mainsail and pull the traveller to the centreline and leave it. In a Solo body position is extremely important. In very light airs your body weight should be centred on the thwart, but do not move forward of this point however light it is. Once you are sat on the side deck move back so that your front leg is pressed against the thwart. As you become fully hiked move back to 150mm from thwart, and then up to 300mm as the wind increases. Offwind Use only enough centreboard so that the rudder is neutral when the boat is flat with the following sail settings: Light Airs Leave the outhaul on its upwind setting. The inhaul (if adjustable) should be released so its slack. The kicker should be slack or just in tension to stop the leech opening too much in the gusts. Medium Airs Ease outhaul so that lens foot is fully eased, ease the inhaul until slack. Set the kicker so that the top batten flies approximately 90 degrees to the boat, this allows the leech to open and maximise speed. If planing is a possibility keep the boat as flat as possible and take the mainsheet 2:1 from the boom. Heavy Airs Only ease the outhaul on tighter reaches if you can use more power. Ease Inhaul until slack. Once on the broader reaches and run ease outhaul to allow a little depth in the foot. Set the kicker as for medium airs or ease to depower on the reaches. This is also very quick on the run to allow running by the lee. By spending time on the water preferably with a tuning partner you will be able to establish the right settings for all conditions. This will allow you to concentrate more of your energies on finding the quickest way round the course. READ MORE

This tuning guide is for E Scow sailors using the rig with the chainplates at the max aft position with longer spreaders. With this rig, backstays are not required, allowing the skipper to fully concentrate on tactics and boat speed. BEFORE STEPPING THE MAST Clean and lubricate turnbuckles, make sure that the top and bottom threaded studs are even in the turnbuckle tube. Position mast so that base is locked in mast step plate on deck and top end is resting in the boom rest support. Check all pins, wires, and fittings for wear, and attach upper and lower shrouds. Pull the forestay down along the top of the mast, pull firmly, and mark the wire with a permanent marker at the top of the mast base casting or where the tube is cut off at the bottom. You will use this mark to measure your mast rake once the mast is in the up position. Check the spreaders to make sure they are pinned in the forward hole for an all-purpose setting. This puts the spreaders in the aft-most position. Make sure that all halyards are pulled down and are not fouled. Using the feeder line that comes up through the mast step, tie this onto the bottom end of the jib halyard and pull the jib halyard through the deck. Take care not to loose the feeder line through the deck or you will have to re-run through the pulleys inside the backbone. Using a person on the foredeck pulling on the spinnaker halyard and someone walking up the mast, step the mast and attach the forestay. After stepping the mast, proper shroud tensions should be obtained. If you have a new North mainsail with the slug sewn into the sail, remove the screw holding the slug slide in the mast and remove the slug slide. This slide can be shackled on another sail for use of an older mainsail. ALL PURPOSE SETTINGS For base setting of the mast rake, start by measuring up from the top of the deck at the forestay along the forestay wire to the mark on the wire that corresponds to the mark you put on the wire at the bottom of the mast tube. Please refer to the mast rake chart and use the measurement which corresponds to the year your boat was built. At this point, tighten the upper shrouds (shrouds that go to the forestay) so they measure 37 (560 lbs) on a PT-1 Loos tension gauge. Make sure the uppers are in the aft-most hole in the chainplates and also make sure you tighten each turnbuckle the same amount. If you want to really fine-tune the rig, measure down to the deck at the chainplates using the jib halyard and adjust the intermediates to center the mast athwartship. Set the lower shrouds at 21 (240 lbs) on the PT-1 gauge and the diamonds at 23 (280 lbs). You will have to work back and forth between shrouds to achieve these base numbers. Note: If you have a new boat or new shrouds it is important to sail a few times in heavy air to stretch out the rigging before setting permanent marks on the shrouds and the mast rake. Double check the mast rake measurement after tightening shrouds and after sailing in a good breeze. Rake Setting The proposed rake settings below are based on the year your E Scow was built. 1998 - 2011 2012 - 2015 2016 or newer 26" 26 1/4" 26 3/8" Easy Tuning Charts Note that all recommended turns are from the base settings. M3 Mainsail / J4 Jib TWS 6 knots BASE - 8 knots (2-3 on rail) 10 knots 12 knots 15 knots 18+ knots Uppers - 37 +1 +1.5 +2 +3 Lowers -1 21 +1 +1 +2 +2 Diamonds -1 23 - - +2 +3 Boards 2 holes FWD 1 hole FWD 1 hole FWD AP 1 hole AFT 2 holes AFT Outhaul Smooth Smooth Smooth Smooth Max Max Vang Loose Slack Out Firm Firm Max Max Cunningham Loose Loose Loose 12" Wrinkles Smooth Smooth Main Traveler Up 2-6" Center to up 2" 1/4 to 1/2 to Post 1/2 to Post 3/4 Down or Post Post Jib Traveler Max Up Max Up Max Up Down 2" Down 3" Down 4" Clewboard 2nd Hole From Top 2nd Hole from Top 2nd Hole From Top 3rd Hole From Top Bottom Hole Bottom Hole Tack Height 4" 4" 3.5" 3" 2.5" 2" MAINSAIL TOP BATTEN - 6-12 knots go to 10180c, >12 knots increase to 10230c 2021 Easy Tuning Charts Easy Tuning Charts (pre 2022) Jib Tack Height Jib tack height at base measured from the deck to the bearing point of the jib tack control line. Mark your control line to ensure you can quickly find your base setting. Adjusting the jib tack in in small increments during a race is a quick way to power-up or de-power the jib and has a more meaningful effect on jib shape than a 1 hole adjustment on the clewboard. See below. Jib Spreader Mark 18.5"-19" measured from center rivet on front of spreader bracket, alongside the front of spreader. In most conditions, the jib leech should be at or near this mark. Periodically sight through the mainsail window or from behind the mainsail to check your sheeting is accurate. RACING YOUR ASYMMETRICAL We wanted to provide you with some helpful tips so that your learning curve moves upward. Please follow some of these initial tips so that you reach maximum performance right out of the gate. Teamwork is a major factor in this sport. So, work with your team and see what techniques may work for you specifically. The tips provided are a baseline to work from. When setting up your Asymmetrical sheets – be sure to rig them so that you are doing “inside jibes”. The clew passes between the luff of the kite and the forestay. A quick way to ensure this is to lead the tack line over the starboard spinnaker sheet when you rig your sheets. Tack over sheet. IMPORTANT MAST TUNING AND ASYMMETRICAL TECHNIQUES TO LEARN As with any masthead spinnaker configuration, the rig is more loaded and will require more attention to rig tuning and some changes in sailing technique.   DIAMOND STAYS The diamond stays on the mast help to support the mast head spinnaker configuration and the tension on the diamonds is important to ensure that the mast stays pre-bent and in column. It is important to follow the tuning guide recommendations and not stray too far from these numbers. Diamonds that are too loose when it is windy will not support the masthead kite properly and cause the mast to invert. Note: Diamond stays will stretch when they are new and you must check them before and after heavy air races, especially when the rig is new. Diamond stays will also measure differently with different tension on the Intermediates and the lowers.   SPREADERS Spreaders should always be in the maximum aft setting on the mast to ensure maximum spreader sweep. Note: This is the fast setting for all wind conditions, and this is true for the aft chainplate boats as well as the forward chainplate boats. The upper spreaders are set from the factory with approximately a 6-1/4” sweep when measuring from the back of the mast to a straight line from tip to tip where the wire passes through the tip. Sweeping the spreaders forward will make the top of the mainsail fuller, sweeping them aft will flatten the top of the mainsail. SIDESTAY TENSION With the forward chainplate rigs it is important to start to put some tension on the uppers once the breeze is over 10 knots. 400 lbs. On the uppers is necessary to insure that the mast stays prebent when sailing downwind. We recommend sailing with the uppers closer to 600 lbs once the breeze is over 15knots. This is the same for the aft chainplate rigs. With the aft chainplate rigs we rarely go below 600 lbs on the upper sidestay tension. MAINSHEET TECHNIQUES It is important with the Asymmetrical to sail at slightly hotter or higher angles than with the symmetrical kites to achieve the greatest performance. This, along with the higher speeds you are achieving will bring the apparent wind angle forward and require the mainsail to be trimmed at a tighter angle. Also, more vang can be carried since you are sailing at hotter angles with more load on the mainsail. Because you are sailing at hotter angles and the A sails are so easy to jibe you should not ease the mainsail out too far on the jibes. The maximum the sheet should ever be eased is about 10’ measuring from the aft corner of the boat to the boom. This technique along with keeping some vang on will help maintain a positive bend in the mast and regardless of backstay tension will help ensure that the mast does not do an inverted bend. RECIPE FOR MAST DAMAGE Crew weight should never exceed 675lbs. on an E Scow. The target weight for 4 people sailing in heavy wind is 630-650lbs. Sailing heavier will dramatically increase loads on the boat and rigging and amplifies mistakes made with tuning and mainsail handling. Jibing in heavy air with the vang loose and the mainsail eased out too far can be a recipe for mast problems. This is the single most important thing you need to concentrate on when sailing the A sail configuration. When you go into a jibe do not slow the boat down, go from high-speed mode right into the jibe. I equate this to a high-speed windsurfing jibe. If the diamonds are too loose and the uppers are too loose this will also compound the situation and cause the mast to invert and could cause failure. As with any powered-up masthead configuration you have to learn the techniques to ensure that you are safely performing the maneuvers. Once you understand the mechanics of the rig you will realize how much fun the A sails are and how much easier they are to sail. With the proper mechanics of boat handling and rig tuning, the rigs are very durable and will stand up to a lot of wind. It is very important to stay within the recommended rig settings. Do not overload the shroud tension or the crew weight as this places too much compression load on the mast and boat and can cause failures. Downwind Asymmetrical Techniques SETTING THE ASYMMETRICAL Pull the bow sprit all the way out – Important – You cannot pull the bowsprit out until you break the plane of the windward mark. Only pull bow sprit out prior to hoisting without kite launcher and one pull tack line system. Mid crew opens the bag and prepares for the kite to exit the cockpit. Only if you don’t have a kite launcher. Make sure to keep the boat flat when in the hoisting process as this helps keep the spinnaker out of the water. Not as important with kite launcher. Mid Crew pulls the spinnaker halyard all the way up - Tip – Make a permanent mark on the halyard in the “full up” position so you pull to that point every time. With kite launcher on hoist countdown, jib crew pulls windward jib sheet in through ratchet and cleats to windward to clear kite launcher hole. After the halyard is ¼ of the way hoisted, Jib Crew now pulls the tack of the asymmetrical all the way out and then immediately uncleats the jib sheet and properly trims jib. Helmsperson Tip – on the set it is very important to help your crew out by bearing away a bit on the hoist. This allows the kite to go all the way up with ease. It is important to also make sure the mainsail is not let out too far. The halyard and head of the kite can get hung up behind the spreader delaying the hoist. Keep an eye on these things. Once the halyard is up your mid crew should communicate “made”. The helmsperson should freshen (head up) right away so that the kite blows away from the rig and then fills. Limit your mistakes on the set – do not sail too high on the set – this makes it harder to pull the halyard up and the kite will fill early making it harder on the crew. With practice, you can push this limit higher. Limit your mistakes on the set. Practice your timing on all of these things and know when you can push the envelope for the ultimate set! THINGS TO THINK ABOUT AND PRACTICE When sailing downwind with the asymmetrical we sail with our boards all the way down. In varying conditions, you may want to experiment with pulling your boards up some. This could be especially good in moderate winds and wavy conditions. Practice this technique and find out what is fast for your team. When in doubt though – keep the boards all the way down. The angle of heel will not vary from the symmetrical kite setup. It is very important to keep your lines clean and drop coiled. You need to drop coil your spinnaker sheets after every jibe so that the sheet runs free through this maneuver. Compass – it is very important to watch your compass angles downwind while staying in the freshest breeze on the course. These boats will be going very fast. Angles and wind really make the difference. Watch your compass as much if not more than you do going upwind. Downwind Sailing Angles – this will vary some. Many think that you have to sail hot and fast in all conditions with this setup. This is not the case. Here is a brief guideline to go by. WINDS 0 - 8 KNOTS A higher angle is required so that the boat builds apparent wind. With this speed, you can begin to sail low. As soon as the boat slows even slightly or the boat begins to flatten in angle of heel – you need to head right back up and fire up the speed again. This requires constant attention and focus. One key factor in this condition is mainsheet trim. As your apparent wind moves forward you need to keep your mainsheet trimmed a lot more. Make sure your mainsail is not luffing. You will be amazed as to how the boat reacts to a tighter mainsheet and how much the boat likes to have the mainsheet worked downwind. Practice this. In this wind range, you want to practice float jibes where you bear away slowly and ease the kite out and start pulling it around so it floats around the bow. WINDS 9-12 KNOT You can experiment with sailing a lower or deeper angle in these conditions. As the breeze hits and the boat heels, begin to drive the boat down and sail deeper. Work your mainsheet. As you sail deeper the main will need to be eased slightly, but not nearly as far as would for a symmetrical sail. WINDS 13 - 15 KNOT This is where it is really fun! Rock and Roll time! Crews should all be on the high side in their hiking straps. The mainsail will need to be trimmed in – almost all the way at times – as your apparent wind is way forward. The Jib Crew will need to work the jib and also the vang. It will feel like you are sailing at a higher angle due to the speed build-up. You really need to get the boat up and rolling – do not sail low or keep people in the boat – put them on the rail and go for a fast ride! The key is the mainsheet, keep the main trimmed. Do not ease the main much through your jibe either! Keep the sail in! In this wind condition you want to perform Mexican jibes, the skipper turns right into the jibe, you trim the sheet tight, strap the foot of the kite, let it back slightly onto the rig on the new windward side of the boat and as the main is coming across you blow the sheet off and trim the new sheet on quickly. ASYMMETRICAL TAKEDOWNS The easiest takedowns are the Windward takedown or the Mexican take-down. The leeward takedown is your third option. WINDWARD TAKEDOWN Head the boat virtually dead downwind. Middle crew begins to pull the windward spin sheet around and then the Jib crew releases the tack line shortly after that. You can release the bow sprit line shortly after. With the kite launcher, mid crew counts down 3-2-1 as they start to pull on the kite retrieval line, jib crew uncleats halyard on 0 and then tack line, tailing as they drop to keep the kite out of trouble. All sheets have to run smoothly to keep the kite coming in freely. Middle Crew - Pull the windward sheet aggressively through the ratchet - all the way back so that the clew reaches the ratchet block. The sail will have inverted. Only if you have no kite launcher. Middle Crew - Call for the halyard once you have the sail in hand. See #2 for kite launcher. Helmsperson - Before the halyard begins to drop be sure to steer up slightly so that the sail blows onto the deck of the boat. If you are dead downwind or sailing by the lee the kite will blow out away from the boat and go into the water. This is not good. It is very important that the helmsperson helps out the crew by steering up. The Middle Crew stuffs the sail into the bag and prepares for the rounding. Only if you don’t have a kite launcher. MEXICAN TAKEDOWN This takedown is effective when approaching the leeward mark on starboard tack and you need to jibe to go around the mark. As you reach a 3 boat length circle from the leeward mark you prepare to go into action. The key is that you need to be at about 150 degrees to true wind as you complete your jibe and you sail on port tack to the mark ( as you jibe you need to have the ability to head up on port jibe slightly so that the asymmetrical stays on the deck of the boat. If you come out of the jibe dead downwind the spinnaker will fall right into the water – again, the helmsperson needs to do their job to make the takedown easy and effective). So, your relation to the leeward mark is critical – you want to exit the jibe and begin to reach toward the leeward mark. You enter the three boat length circle on starboard tack. Helmsperson calls for a Mexican. Middle Crew - Be sure to drop the windward board before entering the jibe. Begin the jibe – the Middle Crew needs to trim the sheet hard so that the clew goes to the ratchet on the port side of the boat. This brings the clew and the foot of the sail to within reach for the takedown. The helmsperson turns the boat and enters the jibe. As the boom goes across he yells for the halyard release. The Jib Crew needs to release the halyard and the mid crew will already be taking in the retrieval line. The helmsperson needs to head up so that the sail gets “pressed” into the rig on the port side. The key is to head up so that the sail falls onto the deck and into the rig keeping the sail away from the water. The crew needs to be on the high side – on this port jibe as you approach the leeward mark – very important if it is windy as the boat will accelerate once you begin to reach to the mark. The tack line and bowsprit line are the last two items to be released. The Middle Crew needs to stuff the sail into the bag and hike hard as the boat rounds the mark. Refer to #2 on windward takedown for jib crew steps. Middle or jib crew pulls the board up on the port side as soon as possible or before the leeward mark. LEEWARD TAKEDOWN The key here is that the helmsman heads down for an easy takedown. Release the tack line and trim the spinnaker sheet in. Release the halyard slowly or with friction for the first 8 feet so that the halyard does not blow out and get hooked on the leech of the mainsail. Middle Crew stuffs the kite into the bag. Final release is the bowsprit line which can occur shortly after the release of the tack line. Takedown with kite launcher: Helm bears away, mid crew starts retrieval in counting down, 3-2-1 halyard is released, then tack. Flatten boat as much as possible to all crew to windward. Speed on the retrieval line is the name of the game. SET UP It is important to follow the North Sails Tuning Guide – I-1 Rig. Follow the amount of rig tension suggested for the varying conditions. SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS The angle of heel is very important on an E Scow. Upwind in up to 10 knots, go for a maximum heel, but never let the water get up on the leeward deck. In more wind, sail with the bilge board vertical in the water. Don’t let the boat heel too much when sailing in a chop: it might feel good, but it is not fast. Just make sure that the bilge board is vertical, or that the boat is just a little flatter. When sailing in a lot of chop, be sure to have a very full jib, power up the main by keeping the rake forward, Cunningham off all the way and the outhaul pulled just until the vertical wrinkles disappear. An E Scow travels at very high speeds for a sailboat, and is very maneuverable even though the rudders are only 10” X 16”. Still, it is important for the crew to be in tune with the skipper to help steer the boat. When a big puff hits, the bow has a tendency to blow to leeward, so the jib crew must be prepared to ease the sheet to prevent this. The most important thing to do when tacking an E Scow is to lower the new board at the right time. As the boat is turning through the tack, wait until the bow is just past head to wind to lower the board: if you do this too soon, it just creates extra drag and slows the boat down. Don’t worry about raising the windward board until the boat is up to speed on the new tack. We like to ease the main slightly and then trim it in to heel the boat as we come up into the wind, and then everybody rolls the boat together. In light to medium winds, keep the jib trimmed in until the boat is head to wind and let the windbreak it across. When it starts to get windy it isn’t necessary to roll the boat, but ease the jib sooner so the bow can come up into the wind easier. TACTICAL CONSIDERATIONS As far as tactical considerations go, at the start just remember that E Scows accelerate quickly, so it’s important to trim in before the boats around you or you might get rolled right away. If you have the room to leeward, simply put the boat on a tight reach with 15 seconds to go, get it up to speed by the time you hit the line, and make sure you can sail over the boat to leeward. E Scows don’t seem to create much of a wind shadow, so don’t be afraid to sail in someone’s bad air if you think it’s the right way to go, since the gains in a windshift can outweigh the loss of boat speed. These boats sail so fast that you are never out of the race. If you find yourself behind, several good wind shifts can move you right through the fleet. The important thing to remember is to keep the pedal down and never give up. All these generalizations are norms and averages that have proven fast over many years. Some experimentation on your part may be necessary to fine-tune your particular rig and sailing style. Good luck! READ MORE

This tuning guide is for E Scow sailors using the rig with the chainplates at the max aft position with longer spreaders. With this rig, backstays are not required, allowing the skipper to fully concentrate on tactics and boat speed. BEFORE STEPPING THE MAST Clean and lubricate turnbuckles, make sure that the top and bottom threaded studs are even in the turnbuckle tube. Position mast so that base is locked in mast step plate on deck and top end is resting in the boom rest support. Check all pins, wires, and fittings for wear, and attach upper and lower shrouds. Pull the forestay down along the top of the mast, pull firmly, and mark the wire with a permanent marker at the top of the mast base casting or where the tube is cut off at the bottom.  You will use this mark to measure your mast rake once the mast is in the up position. Check the spreaders to make sure they are pinned in the forward hole for an all-purpose setting.   This puts the spreaders in the aft-most position. Make sure that all halyards are pulled down and are not fouled. Using the feeder line that comes up through the mast step, tie this onto the bottom end of the jib halyard and pull the jib halyard through the deck.  Take care not to loose the feeder line through the deck or you will have to re-run through the pulleys inside the backbone. Using a person on the foredeck pulling on the spinnaker halyard and someone walking up the mast, step the mast and attach the forestay. After stepping the mast, proper shroud tensions should be obtained.  If you have a new North mainsail with the slug sewn into the sail, remove the screw holding the slug slide in the mast and remove the slug slide.  This slide can be shackled on another sail for use of an older mainsail. ALL PURPOSE SETTINGS For base setting of the mast rake, start by measuring up from the top of the deck at the forestay along the forestay wire to the mark on the wire that corresponds to the mark you put on the wire at the bottom of the mast tube. Please refer to the mast rake chart and use the measurement which corresponds to the year your boat was built. At this point, tighten the upper shrouds (shrouds that go to the forestay) so they measure 37 (560 lbs) on a PT-1 Loos tension gauge. Make sure the uppers are in the aft-most hole in the chainplates and also make sure you tighten each turnbuckle the same amount. If you want to really fine-tune the rig, measure down to the deck at the chainplates using the jib halyard and adjust the intermediates to center the mast athwartship. Set the lower shrouds at 21 (240 lbs) on the PT-1 gauge and the diamonds at 23 (280 lbs). You will have to work back and forth between shrouds to achieve these base numbers. Note: If you have a new boat or new shrouds it is important to sail a few times in heavy air to stretch out the rigging before setting permanent marks on the shrouds and the mast rake. Double check the mast rake measurement after tightening shrouds and after sailing in a good breeze. Rake Setting The proposed rake settings below are based on the year your E Scow was built. 1998 – 2011 2012 – 2015 2016 or newer 26″ 26 1/4″ 26 3/8″   Easy Tuning Charts Note that all recommended turns are from the base settings. M3 Mainsail / J4 Jib TWS 6 knots BASE – 8 knots(2-3 on rail) 10 knots 12 knots 15 knots 18+ knots Uppers – 37 +1 +1.5 +2 +3 Lowers -1 21 +1 +1 +2 +2 Diamonds -1 23 – – +2 +3 Boards 2 holes FWD 1 hole FWD 1 hole FWD AP 1 hole AFT 2 holes AFT Outhaul Smooth Smooth Smooth Smooth Max Max Vang Loose Slack Out Firm Firm Max Max Cunningham Loose Loose Loose 12″ Wrinkles Smooth Smooth Main Traveler Up 2-6″ Center to up 2″ 1/4 to 1/2 to Post 1/2 to Post 3/4 Down or Post Post Jib Traveler Max Up Max Up Max Up Down 2″ Down 3″ Down 4″ Clewboard 2nd Hole From Top 2nd Hole from Top 2nd Hole From Top 3rd Hole From Top Bottom Hole Bottom Hole Tack Height 4″ 4″ 3.5″ 3″ 2.5″ 2″ MAINSAIL TOP BATTEN – 6-12 knots go to 10180c, >12 knots increase to 10230c 2021 Easy Tuning Charts Easy Tuning Charts (pre 2022) Jib Tack Height Jib tack height at base measured from the deck to the bearing point of the jib tack control line. Mark your control line to ensure you can quickly find your base setting. Adjusting the jib tack in in small increments during a race is a quick way to power-up or de-power the jib and has a more meaningful effect on jib shape than a 1 hole adjustment on the clewboard. See below. Jib Spreader Mark 18.5″-19″ measured from center rivet on front of spreader bracket, alongside the front of spreader. In most conditions, the jib leech should be at or near this mark. Periodically sight through the mainsail window or from behind the mainsail to check your sheeting is accurate.   RACING YOUR ASYMMETRICAL We wanted to provide you with some helpful tips so that your learning curve moves upward. Please follow some of these initial tips so that you reach maximum performance right out of the gate. Teamwork is a major factor in this sport. So, work with your team and see what techniques may work for you specifically. The tips provided are a baseline to work from. When setting up your Asymmetrical sheets – be sure to rig them so that you are doing “inside jibes”. The clew passes between the luff of the kite and the forestay. A quick way to ensure this is to lead the tack line over the starboard spinnaker sheet when you rig your sheets. Tack over sheet. IMPORTANT MAST TUNING AND ASYMMETRICAL TECHNIQUES TO LEARN As with any masthead spinnaker configuration, the rig is more loaded and will require more attention to rig tuning and some changes in sailing technique. DIAMOND STAYS The diamond stays on the mast help to support the mast head spinnaker configuration and the tension on the diamonds is important to ensure that the mast stays pre-bent and in column. It is important to follow the tuning guide recommendations and not stray too far from these numbers. Diamonds that are too loose when it is windy will not support the masthead kite properly and cause the mast to invert. Note: Diamond stays will stretch when they are new and you must check them before and after heavy air races, especially when the rig is new. Diamond stays will also measure differently with different tension on the Intermediates and the lowers. SPREADERS Spreaders should always be in the maximum aft setting on the mast to ensure maximum spreader sweep. Note: This is the fast setting for all wind conditions, and this is true for the aft chainplate boats as well as the forward chainplate boats. The upper spreaders are set from the factory with approximately a 6-1/4” sweep when measuring from the back of the mast to a straight line from tip to tip where the wire passes through the tip. Sweeping the spreaders forward will make the top of the mainsail fuller, sweeping them aft will flatten the top of the mainsail. SIDESTAY TENSION With the forward chainplate rigs it is important to start to put some tension on the uppers once the breeze is over 10 knots. 400 lbs. On the uppers is necessary to insure that the mast stays prebent when sailing downwind. We recommend sailing with the uppers closer to 600 lbs once the breeze is over 15knots. This is the same for the aft chainplate rigs. With the aft chainplate rigs we rarely go below 600 lbs on the upper sidestay tension. MAINSHEET TECHNIQUES It is important with the Asymmetrical to sail at slightly hotter or higher angles than with the symmetrical kites to achieve the greatest performance. This, along with the higher speeds you are achieving will bring the apparent wind angle forward and require the mainsail to be trimmed at a tighter angle. Also, more vang can be carried since you are sailing at hotter angles with more load on the mainsail. Because you are sailing at hotter angles and the A sails are so easy to jibe you should not ease the mainsail out too far on the jibes. The maximum the sheet should ever be eased is about 10’ measuring from the aft corner of the boat to the boom. This technique along with keeping some vang on will help maintain a positive bend in the mast and regardless of backstay tension will help ensure that the mast does not do an inverted bend. RECIPE FOR MAST DAMAGE Crew weight should never exceed 675lbs. on an E Scow. The target weight for 4 people sailing in heavy wind is 630-650lbs. Sailing heavier will dramatically increase loads on the boat and rigging and amplifies mistakes made with tuning and mainsail handling. Jibing in heavy air with the vang loose and the mainsail eased out too far can be a recipe for mast problems. This is the single most important thing you need to concentrate on when sailing the A sail configuration. When you go into a jibe do not slow the boat down, go from high-speed mode right into the jibe. I equate this to a high-speed windsurfing jibe. If the diamonds are too loose and the uppers are too loose this will also compound the situation and cause the mast to invert and could cause failure. As with any powered-up masthead configuration you have to learn the techniques to ensure that you are safely performing the maneuvers. Once you understand the mechanics of the rig you will realize how much fun the A sails are and how much easier they are to sail. With the proper mechanics of boat handling and rig tuning, the rigs are very durable and will stand up to a lot of wind. It is very important to stay within the recommended rig settings. Do not overload the shroud tension or the crew weight as this places too much compression load on the mast and boat and can cause failures. Downwind Asymmetrical Techniques SETTING THE ASYMMETRICAL Pull the bow sprit all the way out – Important – You cannot pull the bowsprit out until you break the plane of the windward mark. Only pull bow sprit out prior to hoisting without kite launcher and one pull tack line system. Mid crew opens the bag and prepares for the kite to exit the cockpit. Only if you don’t have a kite launcher. Make sure to keep the boat flat when in the hoisting process as this helps keep the spinnaker out of the water. Not as important with kite launcher. Mid Crew pulls the spinnaker halyard all the way up – Tip – Make a permanent mark on the halyard in the “full up” position so you pull to that point every time. With kite launcher on hoist countdown, jib crew pulls windward jib sheet in through ratchet and cleats to windward to clear kite launcher hole. After the halyard is ¼ of the way hoisted, Jib Crew now pulls the tack of the asymmetrical all the way out and then immediately uncleats the jib sheet and properly trims jib. Helmsperson Tip – on the set it is very important to help your crew out by bearing away a bit on the hoist. This allows the kite to go all the way up with ease. It is important to also make sure the mainsail is not let out too far. The halyard and head of the kite can get hung up behind the spreader delaying the hoist. Keep an eye on these things. Once the halyard is up your mid crew should communicate “made”. The helmsperson should freshen (head up) right away so that the kite blows away from the rig and then fills. Limit your mistakes on the set – do not sail too high on the set – this makes it harder to pull the halyard up and the kite will fill early making it harder on the crew. With practice, you can push this limit higher. Limit your mistakes on the set. Practice your timing on all of these things and know when you can push the envelope for the ultimate set! THINGS TO THINK ABOUT AND PRACTICE When sailing downwind with the asymmetrical we sail with our boards all the way down. In varying conditions, you may want to experiment with pulling your boards up some. This could be especially good in moderate winds and wavy conditions. Practice this technique and find out what is fast for your team. When in doubt though – keep the boards all the way down. The angle of heel will not vary from the symmetrical kite setup. It is very important to keep your lines clean and drop coiled. You need to drop coil your spinnaker sheets after every jibe so that the sheet runs free through this maneuver. Compass – it is very important to watch your compass angles downwind while staying in the freshest breeze on the course. These boats will be going very fast. Angles and wind really make the difference. Watch your compass as much if not more than you do going upwind. Downwind Sailing Angles – this will vary some. Many think that you have to sail hot and fast in all conditions with this setup. This is not the case. Here is a brief guideline to go by. WINDS 0 – 8 KNOTS A higher angle is required so that the boat builds apparent wind. With this speed, you can begin to sail low. As soon as the boat slows even slightly or the boat begins to flatten in angle of heel – you need to head right back up and fire up the speed again. This requires constant attention and focus. One key factor in this condition is mainsheet trim. As your apparent wind moves forward you need to keep your mainsheet trimmed a lot more. Make sure your mainsail is not luffing. You will be amazed as to how the boat reacts to a tighter mainsheet and how much the boat likes to have the mainsheet worked downwind. Practice this. In this wind range, you want to practice float jibes where you bear away slowly and ease the kite out and start pulling it around so it floats around the bow. WINDS 9-12 KNOT You can experiment with sailing a lower or deeper angle in these conditions. As the breeze hits and the boat heels, begin to drive the boat down and sail deeper. Work your mainsheet. As you sail deeper the main will need to be eased slightly, but not nearly as far as would for a symmetrical sail. WINDS 13 – 15 KNOT This is where it is really fun! Rock and Roll time! Crews should all be on the high side in their hiking straps. The mainsail will need to be trimmed in – almost all the way at times – as your apparent wind is way forward. The Jib Crew will need to work the jib and also the vang. It will feel like you are sailing at a higher angle due to the speed build-up. You really need to get the boat up and rolling – do not sail low or keep people in the boat – put them on the rail and go for a fast ride! The key is the mainsheet, keep the main trimmed. Do not ease the main much through your jibe either! Keep the sail in! In this wind condition you want to perform Mexican jibes, the skipper turns right into the jibe, you trim the sheet tight, strap the foot of the kite, let it back slightly onto the rig on the new windward side of the boat and as the main is coming across you blow the sheet off and trim the new sheet on quickly.   ASYMMETRICAL TAKEDOWNS The easiest takedowns are the Windward takedown or the Mexican take-down. The leeward takedown is your third option. WINDWARD TAKEDOWN Head the boat virtually dead downwind. Middle crew begins to pull the windward spin sheet around and then the Jib crew releases the tack line shortly after that. You can release the bow sprit line shortly after. With the kite launcher, mid crew counts down 3-2-1 as they start to pull on the kite retrieval line, jib crew uncleats halyard on 0 and then tack line, tailing as they drop to keep the kite out of trouble. All sheets have to run smoothly to keep the kite coming in freely. Middle Crew – Pull the windward sheet aggressively through the ratchet – all the way back so that the clew reaches the ratchet block. The sail will have inverted. Only if you have no kite launcher. Middle Crew – Call for the halyard once you have the sail in hand. See #2 for kite launcher. Helmsperson – Before the halyard begins to drop be sure to steer up slightly so that the sail blows onto the deck of the boat. If you are dead downwind or sailing by the lee the kite will blow out away from the boat and go into the water. This is not good. It is very important that the helmsperson helps out the crew by steering up. The Middle Crew stuffs the sail into the bag and prepares for the rounding. Only if you don’t have a kite launcher. MEXICAN TAKEDOWN This takedown is effective when approaching the leeward mark on starboard tack and you need to jibe to go around the mark. As you reach a 3 boat length circle from the leeward mark you prepare to go into action. The key is that you need to be at about 150 degrees to true wind as you complete your jibe and you sail on port tack to the mark ( as you jibe you need to have the ability to head up on port jibe slightly so that the asymmetrical stays on the deck of the boat. If you come out of the jibe dead downwind the spinnaker will fall right into the water – again, the helmsperson needs to do their job to make the takedown easy and effective). So, your relation to the leeward mark is critical – you want to exit the jibe and begin to reach toward the leeward mark. You enter the three boat length circle on starboard tack. Helmsperson calls for a Mexican. Middle Crew – Be sure to drop the windward board before entering the jibe. Begin the jibe – the Middle Crew needs to trim the sheet hard so that the clew goes to the ratchet on the port side of the boat. This brings the clew and the foot of the sail to within reach for the takedown. The helmsperson turns the boat and enters the jibe. As the boom goes across he yells for the halyard release. The Jib Crew needs to release the halyard and the mid crew will already be taking in the retrieval line. The helmsperson needs to head up so that the sail gets “pressed” into the rig on the port side. The key is to head up so that the sail falls onto the deck and into the rig keeping the sail away from the water. The crew needs to be on the high side – on this port jibe as you approach the leeward mark – very important if it is windy as the boat will accelerate once you begin to reach to the mark. The tack line and bowsprit line are the last two items to be released. The Middle Crew needs to stuff the sail into the bag and hike hard as the boat rounds the mark. Refer to #2 on windward takedown for jib crew steps. Middle or jib crew pulls the board up on the port side as soon as possible or before the leeward mark. LEEWARD TAKEDOWN The key here is that the helmsman heads down for an easy takedown. Release the tack line and trim the spinnaker sheet in. Release the halyard slowly or with friction for the first 8 feet so that the halyard does not blow out and get hooked on the leech of the mainsail. Middle Crew stuffs the kite into the bag. Final release is the bowsprit line which can occur shortly after the release of the tack line. Takedown with kite launcher: Helm bears away, mid crew starts retrieval in counting down, 3-2-1 halyard is released, then tack. Flatten boat as much as possible to all crew to windward. Speed on the retrieval line is the name of the game. SET UP It is important to follow the North Sails Tuning Guide – I-1 Rig. Follow the amount of rig tension suggested for the varying conditions. SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS The angle of heel is very important on an E Scow. Upwind in up to 10 knots, go for a maximum heel, but never let the water get up on the leeward deck. In more wind, sail with the bilge board vertical in the water. Don’t let the boat heel too much when sailing in a chop: it might feel good, but it is not fast. Just make sure that the bilge board is vertical, or that the boat is just a little flatter. When sailing in a lot of chop, be sure to have a very full jib, power up the main by keeping the rake forward, Cunningham off all the way and the outhaul pulled just until the vertical wrinkles disappear. An E Scow travels at very high speeds for a sailboat, and is very maneuverable even though the rudders are only 10” X 16”. Still, it is important for the crew to be in tune with the skipper to help steer the boat. When a big puff hits, the bow has a tendency to blow to leeward, so the jib crew must be prepared to ease the sheet to prevent this. The most important thing to do when tacking an E Scow is to lower the new board at the right time. As the boat is turning through the tack, wait until the bow is just past head to wind to lower the board: if you do this too soon, it just creates extra drag and slows the boat down. Don’t worry about raising the windward board until the boat is up to speed on the new tack. We like to ease the main slightly and then trim it in to heel the boat as we come up into the wind, and then everybody rolls the boat together. In light to medium winds, keep the jib trimmed in until the boat is head to wind and let the windbreak it across. When it starts to get windy it isn’t necessary to roll the boat, but ease the jib sooner so the bow can come up into the wind easier. TACTICAL CONSIDERATIONS As far as tactical considerations go, at the start just remember that E Scows accelerate quickly, so it’s important to trim in before the boats around you or you might get rolled right away. If you have the room to leeward, simply put the boat on a tight reach with 15 seconds to go, get it up to speed by the time you hit the line, and make sure you can sail over the boat to leeward. E Scows don’t seem to create much of a wind shadow, so don’t be afraid to sail in someone’s bad air if you think it’s the right way to go, since the gains in a windshift can outweigh the loss of boat speed. These boats sail so fast that you are never out of the race. If you find yourself behind, several good wind shifts can move you right through the fleet. The important thing to remember is to keep the pedal down and never give up. All these generalizations are norms and averages that have proven fast over many years. Some experimentation on your part may be necessary to fine-tune your particular rig and sailing style. Good luck! READ MORE

Young 88 Quick Reference Chart True Wind Speed (knots) Cap Tension (Loos) Lower Tension (Loos) 0-8 13 Slack 9-12 (Base) 17 7 13-18 21 13 19+ 24 19 True Wind Speed (knots) Mast Step Chocks* 0-8 Aft 15 mm 10-20 mm behind 9-12 (Base) Base 5370 mm Neutral (Float) 13-18 Fwd 5 mm 10 mm front 19+ Fwd 10 mm 10 mm front *Chocks: Measures from Neutral. Neutral is floating position of mast ad deck with slack out of forestay NOTES: Dock Rig Measurement Position: measure rig with chocks taken out and slack out of forestay by pulling on backstay. Base Mast Rake - Top of mainsail track to top of boom: 11.140 m; to deck: 11.950 m; to transom: 14 m Mainsail Track at Hounds Height to transom - 11.380 Mainsail Track at spreader height: 7.785 cm Arc measured from underside of bottom mast band on forestay Young 88 Playbook MORNING Prior to Dock Out Bow Check spinnakers are packed Mast Run Sheets etc Pit Interior chief, check essentials are onboard, food/water Floater/Brace Run sheets etc. Bail boat out etc Main Check batten tensions Helm Check weather, tide, noticeboard, team briefing prior to dock out Jib/Spin Trim Check correct Sails are onboard before you leave the dock Pre-Start Warm-Up Bow Set up spinnaker and pole on correct side. Get line transit. Mast Help Bow with set up. Pit Check Headsail halyard tension with trimmer. Floater/Brace Practice calling breeze, looking up the course. Main Check settings for first beat (outhaul, cunningham, etc) Helm Check in with the Committee boat. Go through course with team. Practice runs at the line, lay lines etc. Look up the course to plan your first beat. Jib/Spin Trim Select Headsail and Spinnaker to plug in. PRE-START Light Air Bow On bow calling time and distance. Mast Weight on rail where required. Pit Calling time every 10 seconds from 3 minutes down. Floater/Brace Looking at wind up the course. Tactical input. Main Mainsail trim, set traveler for the final approach. Helm Steering, work on final approach getting a good lane. Jib/Spin Trim Trimming and relay if there are boats to look out for. Heavy Air Bow Weight up where possible, only on bow for final approach at line to call time and distance. Mast Weight on rail where required. Pit Calling time every 10 seconds from 3 minutes down. Floater/Brace Looking at wind up the course. Tactical input. Main Mainsail trim, set traveler for final approach. Helm Steering, work on final approach getting a good lane. Jib/Spin Trim Trimming and relay if there are boats to look out for. UPWIND Light Air Bow Weight on rail where required. Relay obstacles like weed. Mast Weight on rail where required. Lean in and out for lulls/puffs. Pit Weight on rail where required. Lean in and out for lulls/puffs. Make sure Headsail Halyard is left on Winch. Floater/Brace Calling breeze for the Helm/Trim team. Main Main trim, work with the helm to keep the boat balanced and fast. Traveler up. Helm Steering, looking at Headsail Woolies etc. Jib/Spin Trim Headsail trim, work with the helm to keep the boat balanced and fast, full power. Check Luff tension. Heavy Air Bow Weight out. Relay obstacles like weeds. Mast Weight out. Pit Weight out. Make sure Headsail Halyard is left on Winch. Floater/Brace Calling breeze for the Helm/Trim team. Main Main trim, work for the helm to keep the boat balanced and fast. Traveler down in puffs. Helm Steering, looking at Headsail Woolies, etc. Jib/Spin Trim Headsail trim, work with the helm to keep the boat balanced and fast, de-power (car aft) if needed. TACK Light Air Bow Cross boat around mast, skirt headsail if need be. Mast Cross boat under boom. Pit Cross boat through companionway. Floater/Brace Cross boat through companionway. Main Traveler up on new side ASAP. Speed build, then final trim. Helm Call "Standby to Tack," followed by "Tacking in 3,2,1..." Jib/Spin Trim Cut and tail, speed build out of tack, final trim. Heavy Air Bow Cross boat around mat, skirt headsail if need be. Mast Cross boat under boom. Pit Cross boat through companionway. Floater/Brace Cross boat through companionway. Main Ease a little mainsheet going into the tack. Sort traveler, speed build, back to final trim. Helm Call “Standby to Tack”, followed by “Tacking in 3,2,1….”. Be very loud so Bow team can hear. Jib/Spin Trim Cut and tail, speed build out of tack, final trim. Indicate if Headsail Skirt is required. TOP MARK Light Air Bow Pole up on final approach. Get ease in Windward Spin/Jib sheets. Drop Headsail after rounding. Mast Weight on rail. Bounce topper if needed. Hoist Spinnaker once Helmsman calls it. Pit Topper Up, Headsail halyard off winch ready to drop. Tail Spinnaker Halyard to Full Hoist with clutch CLOSED, Drop Headsail ASAP. Floater/Brace Weight on rail. Move to Brace if needed. Main Ensure Mainsheet is free to run, ease cunningham, outhaul at a suitable time. Helm Steering around mark. Call “Ready to hoist”, “Hoisting in 3,2,1…”. Jib/Spin Trim Ease Headsail and lock off for Hoist. Set Spin/Brace up. Sheet/Brace on. Trim. Heavy Air Bow Pole up on final approach. Get ease in Windward Spin/Jib sheets. Mast Weight on rail. Bounce topper if needed. Hoist Spinnaker once Helmsman calls it. Pit Topper Up, Headsail halyard off winch ready to drop. Tail Spinnaker Halyard to Full Hoist with clutch CLOSED, Drop Headsail ASAP. Floater/Brace Move to Brace for hoist. Brace on and Trim. Main Ensure Mainsheet is free to run, ease cunningham, outhaul at a suitable time. Helm Steering around mark. Call “Ready to hoist”, “Hoisting in 3,2,1…”. Be loud! Jib/Spin Trim Ease Headsail and lock off for Hoist. Set Spin/Brace up. Sheet/Brace on. Trim. STRAIGHT LINE DOWNWIND Light Air Bow Weight in front of mast. Holding downhaul. Mast Weight to leeward holding out boom. Call wind. Pit Weight forward where needed. Floater/Brace Weight forward where needed if Spin Trim can do own Brace. Main Set Traveler, Main trim is crucial when sailing angles. Helm Concentrate on driving smoothly. Work with Trimmers. Jib/Spin Trim Be dynamic with Spin Trim, call pole forward/ aft where needed. Talk helm about pressure in spinnaker. Heavy Air Bow Weight behind mast. Hold downhaul if you can. Mast Weight aft where needed. Call wind. Pit Weight aft where needed. Can stand in companionway hatch. Floater/Brace Trimming brace. Pole forward if needed to stop boat rounding out. Main Main eased. Look out for other boats, wind, etc. Helm Keep the boat on its feet, work with trimmers. Jib/Spin Trim Be dynamic with Spin Trim, call pole forward/ aft where needed. Talk to helm about pressure in spinnaker GYBE Light Air Bow Wait for Gybe Call, Trip both pole ends, clip new Brace in, push pole forward to clew as you push out and onto mast. Mast Human pole on new side. Hold shrouds for balance. Pit Weight across or in companionway. May need to ease more Downhaul for Gybe. Floater/Brace Grind Brace aft as you go into Gybe to help rotate the spinnaker. Main Pull Leeward Tweaker on for Gybe. Release Tweaker on Spinnaker sheet after Gybe. Helm Call “Standby for Gybe”, “Gybing in 3,2,1…”. Steer the boat smoothly. Only Gybe when Spinnaker is set! Jib/Spin Trim Keep Spinnaker Set throughout the Gybe! Heavy Air Bow Wait for Gybe Call, Trip both pole ends, clip new Brace in, push pole forward to clew as you push out and onto mast. Mast Human pole on new side. Hold shrouds for balance. Pit Weight in companionway. May need to ease more Downhaul for Gybe, then pull back on once set. Floater/Brace Grind Brace aft as you go into Gybe to help rotate the spinnaker. Main Make sure tweakers are on for Gybe! Helm Call “Standby for Gybe”, “Gybing in 3,2,1…”. Only Gybe when Spinnaker is set! Be very careful about your exit angle, not too high or too low! Jib/Spin Trim Keep Spinnaker Set throughout the Gybe! DROPS Windward Drop Bow Wait for Jib Up and Pole off Call. Pole off and stowed between Jib Car and Cabin Windows Leeward side. Make sure Lazy Jib Sheet is behind the Hatch. Open Hatch ready for Drop. Human Pole will hand you the Clew for the Drop. Close Hatch and double check sheets are clear, then relay to the back of the boat “Clear for a Tack”. Mast Hoist Headsail once call is made, then shift to Human Pole as the Pole comes off. Hand Windward Clew to Bow person for Drop. Pit Tail Headsail Halyard, leave on winch and get to the correct setting for the Trimmer. Gently ease Topper as pole goes to Deck. Spin Halyard should already be run. Control the Spinnaker Drop for Bow team. Floater/Brace Ease Brace for Bow Team. Main Trimming Main. Get set up for Upwind – Outhaul, Cunningham etc. Helm Angle for Drop is critical! Cannot be reaching, you must be low downwind! Call “Ready to Drop”, “Dropping in 3,2,1…”. Jib/Spin Trim Release Spin Sheet and set up working Headsail sheet. Trim on Headsail for Drop. Final trim around Mark, then set up for a Tack. Leeward Drop Bow Wait for Jib Up and Pole off Call. Pole off and stowed between Jib Car and Cabin Windows. Make sure Lazy Jib Sheet is behind the Hatch. Open Hatch ready for Drop. Reach under Headsail and grab Leeward Sheet to Drop. . Close Hatch and double check sheets are clear, then relay to the back of the boat “Clear for a Tack”. Mast Hoist Headsail once call is made, then shift to Human Pole as the Pole comes off. Help Bow person drop Spinnaker if needed. Pit Tail Headsail Halyard, leave on winch and get to the correct setting for the Trimmer. Gently ease Topper as pole goes to Deck. Spin Halyard should already be run. Control the Spinnaker Drop for Bow team. Floater/Brace Ease Brace for Bow Team. If Pole is on for the Drop, ‘smoke’ the brace out all the way off the winch! Main Trimming Main. Get set up for Upwind – Outhaul, Cunningham etc. Helm Angle not as critical, but make it as easy for the team. Call “Ready to Drop”, “Dropping in 3,2,1…”. Jib/Spin Trim Release Spin Sheet and set up working Headsail sheet. Trim on Headsail for Drop. Final trim around Mark, then set up for a Tack. POST RACE After Races Bow Rig check, area check, pack Spinnakers. Mast Area check, pack Spinnakers, flake sails. Pit Area check, Clean out interior. Check Water for following day. Floater/Brace Bail boat, help with Sails, get beers for team. Main Check Mainsail for chafe, Batten damage etc. Helm Check sheets etc are all in before turning engine on. Check noticeboard for protests, amendments etc. Team Debrief, Plan for next Race Day. Jib/Spin Trim Check Headsails as they are getting flaked up for chafe, Batten Damage etc. A note about repairs/damage: Deal with it right away, do not leave for the morning! Take ownership of all your areas. Race hard & have fun! READ MORE

V-Series Important Settings for Key Performance Power your new North Sails Optimist V-Series mainsail for speed following the recommendations on this quick tuning guide. BASE SETTINGS Sail ties can be adjusted in the range of 1-5mm in light wind and heavy wind to have comfortable depth and shape. LIGHT WIND: Smaller space at the middle so that leech becomes easier open. HEAVY WIND: Smaller space at the middle so that you can make the shape comfortably flat enough to reduce the power. Sail Ties: Top: 2mm Middle: 2mm Bottom: 2mm * Parallel to the mast. Distance of space distribution to be made from top to the bottom. Adjustment is required only for suitable sail shape (depth) for each condition and to be done only when needed.These are sometimes required depending on mast stiffness and sailor’s weight, but only when if needed. BASIC TRIM  Wind Range 0-8 knots 8-12 knots 12-16 knots Mast Rake 2780 – 2800 mm 2770 – 2790 mm 2770 – 2780 mm Sprit Wrinkles Some Wrinkles A Few Wrinkles Vang No tension in upwind Light tension in upwind Tension Prebender 2 turns /Some Slack at Luff 2 turns /Some Slack at Luff No Wrinkle at Luff Center Board Max Max Max Wind Range 16-24 knots 25+ knots Mast Rake 2750 – 2760mm 2790 ±10mm Sprit Wrinkles Wrinkles Vang Lots of tension Cleat with main sheet trimming harder Prebender Tension on Luff Tension on Luff Center Board 0-50 mm up 30-70 mm up OUTHAUL CONTROL – VERY IMPORTANT FOR KEY PERFORMANCE! You have to pay attention to the outhaul to adjust it properly according to the conditions and sailors weight. You need to find the best position that fits your weight, mast rake( boom position), sea status, weather helm feeling for each condition. Playing outhaul in the range of 20mm at the boom end. Ease it maximum in 10-14knots and clew end has to be located 30-40mm away from the boom end. FLAT WATER –  Trim 10mm more than the normal position. LIGHT / VERY STRONG WIND –  Bottom to be flattened comfortably. READ MORE

Rig Tuning Guide All turns from base. TWS Knots Forestay V1 D1 D2 0-5 -5 -3 -1 -1 5-10 -3 -1 0 0 10-14 BASE BASE BASE BASE 14-18 +5 +2 +1 +1 28-22 +10 +3 +1 +2 22+ +10 +4 +3 +2 BASE TUNING - PT-2 V1 30 D1 25 D2 7 BASE Swing 1853 mm Using the jib halyard, pull the halyard taught against the mast at the level of the top BAS (black band). Swing the halyard to the forestay and mark the forestay at this height. Measure from the mark down to the top of the stainless steel forestay fitting. This measurement is 1853mm for base setting. READ MORE

North Sails expert Charlie Cumbley provides a detailed run-through on how to get the most out of your OK Dinghy sail. This guide will help to get your mast set up correctly for a North sail, looking at mast rake and mast position at deck level. For each of the settings, there will be a suggested range to suit different conditions, sailing fitness levels, and styles. Please use this as a guide; it’s not gospel as everyone will have a slightly different idea on how the boat should feel. By measuring these positions and getting within these ranges, you will be able to be competitive and also accurately reproduce your settings. As we learn more about the OK Dinghy or any other One Design class, new information regarding setup, tuning, and trimming techniques will be updated on the class page.  MAST POSITION AT DECK The position of the mast at deck level will have a major bearing on how much rudder angle or weather helm your setup will produce. For any given mast rake, you can move the mast forward or aft in the boat by moving both the mast heel and deck adjusters the same amount. By moving the mast forward, you move the center of effort of the sail plan forward which will reduce the amount of rudder angle and feel. Likewise, moving it back will increase that rudder angle and feel. This position will vary depending on the boat type, foil shapes, sail shape, and conditions you are sailing in. As a rule of thumb, if you generally sail on flat water and/or light airs, you will want to move the sail plan back in the boat as this increases helm and will help you achieve a ‘high mode’ when sailing upwind. Conversely, if you are sailing in choppy/rough conditions and/or stronger winds, then you will prefer to reduce the amount of helm and rudder angle to allow for a faster lower mode upwind. As a result of this, the deck position often varies from boat to boat and depends on a sailor's preferred way of sailing. For an Ovington with a North Sail, Charlie's all-purpose measurement is 3270mm. Move the rig back 15mm to 3255mm for a flat water/light airs venue. We recommend you measure this deck position as shown in the pictures below; measured from the aft edge of the deck ring to the aft edge of the transom. MAST RAKE The most traditional way to set up mast rake is to simply hoist a tape measure up on the main halyard to the top band. To make sure you are as accurate as possible each time, once hoisted, measure down the mast to the top edge of the bottom band by the gooseneck. The tape should read 5400mm. Use the tape to measure to the top of the transom - the most popular range varies from 6100mm to 6200mm. This range depends on wind conditions, sea state, and mast stiffness. In theory, you would be looking for a more upright mast in ‘max power’ conditions and flatter water, but this will depend on your own body weight and hiking fitness. In the lighter airs, you would generally opt for a more raked aft setting to reduce leech tension and increase weather helm. We would advise a setting in the middle of these for the windy setting. Once you get overpowered from your max power setting, dropping the mast rake back a little will help the sail twist open and depower as well as allow for a faster, lower upwind mode which will be needed in these windier/rougher conditions. The downside with measuring the mast rake in this manner is it does not allow for the variation in mast bend, in particular the fore/aft tip deflection. For example, if you have a mast with an f/a tip deflection of 480mm (measured in the normal manner with 10kg) and you set up the mast rake with a measurement of 6150mm, for any given upwind sheeting position (i.e with the boom end ‘1 booms depth’ from the deck), you will have more leech tension than if you were using a mast with an f/a tip deflection of 540mm. It's this leech tension that is a critical factor for your upwind performance, so we recommend an alternative method for measuring mast rake which is used extensively in the Finn class. This method is shown below. HOW TO MEASURE LEECH TENSION Rather than measuring your mast in a straight line ‘tip of mast to transom’ as described earlier in the guide, this system measures what tension would be put through the leech of the sail. This allows you to get more accurate settings and go afloat with a good idea of how open your leech will fly (leech twist). It will also allow you to interchange different masts and set the leech profile to the same setting no matter how different your masts may be. You can use any of the different spring/digital gauges currently on the market; Persola Spring Balance, Devoti digital strain gauge both work perfectly well. We have used the Persola spring balance in this guide. 1 - Attach tension gauge and long tape measure to mainsail halyard. Hoist halyard until the tape measures 5400mm when pulled taught down the mast to the top edge of the bottom mast band. Pull some tension onto the gauge at this point and remeasure this hoist once the halyard has bed in. 2 - Attach tension gauge onto the outhaul. 3 - Tie the traveler out to the side deck, the furthest it can be from the centreline (so the boom is positioned on the edge of the gunwale when pulled to the deck in stage 4). 4 - With the mainsheet, sheet the boom to the deck (NOTE: Always use the same side of the boat for measuring tensions. Always measure with boom end on side of the boat). 5 - Take measuring tape and measure to the inner edge of the boom black band. Adjust the outhaul so that the tape reads 5425mm when held taught. 6 - Read the numbers on the gauge to see what the mast is set up at - this is your leech tension. Quick Tuning Table Helm Weight <6 knots - Superlight 5-10 knots - Light/Medium All Purpose >18 knots - Strong >95kg 75lbs/34kg 79lbs/35.8kg 84lbs/38kg 82lbs/37.2kg 85-95kg 72lb/32.6kg 76lbs/34.5kg 82lbs/37.2kg 80lbs/36.3kg 75-85kg 72lb/32.6kg 75lbs/34kg 80lbs/36.3kg 77lbs/34.9kg To adjust the tension, you can either move the chocks at deck level or move the foot of the mast (approximately 1mm chock at deck is equal to 1lb/0.5kg leech tension). Always re-check the tension after changes. This system also helps when trialing mast position fore/aft in the boat to maintain consistent leech tension. This guide will help maximize the performance of your North sail. If you have any queries, visit the OK Dinghy class page to contact any of the class experts. Check out the videos below for a detailed tuning run-through with Charlie. Happy sailing! READ MORE

SAIL1DESIGN + NORTH SAILS 420 CLINIC Sailors Joined S1D and North Experts in Maryland 📸 North Sails Organized soon after the State of Maryland lifted boating/sailing restrictions and careful to mind all social distancing policies and procedures, the 29-31 May North Sails “C&I” 420 Clinic found some very eager participants, who could not wait to get out on the water and get back to sailing. Limited to six top local teams, chosen by experience and resume, the clinic featured Coach Lior Lavie, an Olympic-level sailor and a highly experienced and successful coach, and North Sails rep Tom Sitzmann. The Clinic was held at Sail1Design, a private venue on the Magothy River, just north of Annapolis, MD. 📸 North Sails As many know the 420 class sailboat has, in fact, two separate organizing classes, the International 420, and the Club 420. Coming soon will be a detailed article on these two classes, compared, so stay tuned. For now, and very briefly, here is a quick look: International 420 Class • Truly an international class, with fleets around the world • Tapered spar, high performance foil and sailmaker options. The class maintains strict rules but does allow sailors to buy their own favorite brand of foils and sails. • Rig tuning includes allowing spreader adjustment • Minimum hull weight is 176.4 lbs. • Boat will plane upwind and downwind in moderate wind conditions • Class organization is very strong; USA class participation is good, attracting many of the most talented youth sailors in the country • The choice for the US Youth double-handed championship Club 420 Class • USA only • Non-tapered spar, can use only class foils and class sails (North Sails is the sailmaker for the C420 class). Hull must have rail bumper. Rules are designed to promote durability. • Minimum hull weight is 230lbs. • Boat will plane downwind, not nearly as much or as often upwind when compared to the i420 • Class organization is very strong, class participation is excellent, often with 60+ boats attending major National-level events. 📸 North Sails One of the goals of this clinic was to expose sailors, first-hand, to the distinctions between the i420 and the C420. North Sails expert Tom Sitzmann, who is currently working on an all-new NS i420 tuning guide, shared some of the tips and tricks that make the North Sails i420 sails set up as they should be (for more information on North Sails i420 options, contact Tom) While both classes offer incredible opportunities for youth sailors, their tuning, trim, and focus points are distinct, and successful teams know these differences. Ultimately, the difference in each boat’s performance characteristics requires teams to dial in to the boat’s capabilities, and recognize tactics must change with boats that go different speeds. On the first day, 2 i420’s rigged up along with three C420’s, and teams interested in trying out the i420 were able to do so. Coach Lior had both C and i420’s do the same drills, and it was really neat to see the boats out training together. One sailor commented “The i420 was planing upwind for us, almost right out of a tack; I was amazed at how that boat accelerated and seemed to lift up right away.” Graeme Woodworth, whose son Luke participated in the clinic and was himself a top youth i420 and All-American collegiate sailor, noted that these two classes, back in the 1990’s, did have some overlap, and that the c420 National champion used to be given a spot at the i420 World Championship. For the rest of the weekend the group all sailed C420’s to make things even, and Coach Lior had the group work relentlessly on boat-handling, and spinnaker sets, jibes, and take-downs. It’s quite likely that the teams did more spinnaker work in these three days than at any other time in their lives, and the improvements were noticeable and impressive. In the end, the group had three days of near perfect weather conditions, and all learned a great deal. For more information on 420 sailing and i420 sails, contact North Sails today! 420 Tuning Guide Contact Tom 📸 North Sails READ MORE

Beneteau First 18 SE & Seascape 18 Quick Tuning Guide. QUICK TUNING NOTES TWS 0-4 4-8 8-12 12-16 18+ Mast Rake 8,64m Shrouds Tension Loos Tension Gauge 91 Model A 34 36 Base Setting 38-40 42-44 45-46 Shroud Turnbuckles (Full Turns) -1 0 +1 to +2 +3 to +4 +5 to +6 JIB Cunningham Light Light/Medium Medium Medium/Tight Tight Clew (Older option) Upper Upper Upper Upper Upper Traveler (New option) Middle Middle Middle Middle Middle Twist Medium Minimum Minimum/Medium Medium Medium Cross Sheeting No No No No No MAINSAIL A-Frame (distance - blocks) 5-10 cm 1-3 cm 1-3 cm 3 cm Play in puffs Outhaul (mid-foot from boom) 8-10 cm 8-10 cm 5-8 cm Tight Tight Vang (Kicker) Snug Snug Medium Hard Hard Cunningham No Light Light/Medium Medium/Max Max Twist Medium Minimum Minimum Minimum/Medium Lots Keel Position 88° - 85° 85° 85° 85° 85° Downwind (App. Wind Angle) 85° - 100° Speed 90° - 130° Speed & Soaking 110° - 140° Speed & Soaking 120° - 150° Speed & Soaking 100° - 130° Speed & Soaking Seascape 18 Speed Guide UPWIND TWS BS VMG HEEL AWA AWS TWA TACK 6 3.9 2.9 9° 25° 9.3 42 90 8 4.7 3.5 10° 25° 12 40 86 10 5.1 4.0 12° 25° 14.4 38 84 12 5.2 4.2 15° 25° 16.5 36 80 14 5.3 4.3 16° 26° 18.5 36 75 16 5.3 4.3 16° 27° 20.6 35 75 20 5.4 4.4 18° 28° 24.6 35 75 DOWNWIND TWS BS VMG HEEL AWA AWS TWA JIBE 6 3.9 3.2 5° 109° 3.5 147 85 8 4.8 4.1 5° 115° 4.7 148 80 10 5.4 4.7 6° 122° 6 150 70 12 5.8 5.0 6° 128° 7.5 150 65 14 6.2 5.4 6° 130° 9.1 150 65 16 7.6 6.1 7° 118° 11 143 75 20 12.1 8.8 10° 100° 14 137 80 READ MORE