NORTH SAILS BLOG

When venturing offshore, there are numerous considerations to ensure a safe and successful journey to the finish line. READ MORE

Nigel Musto, North Sails Performance Clothing Director, gives us his top tips on maximizing the life of Foul Weather gear. READ MORE

Available for cruising boats up to 45 ft, NPL RENEW is the start of a new and important shift for sailmaking towards a more sustainable sail that does not sacrifice performance or longevity. Learn more about NPL RENEW with our FAQs from NPL RENEW Product Director Tom Davis. READ MORE

North Sails President and world-renowned race winner Ken Read lends his expertise to our Flying Sails Guide, a new breed of offwind sails that can add as much as 40 percent more sail area. READ MORE

The Engine Above Deck The North Sails team has focussed hard on the Cape 31 Class since its inception and as a result it is no surprise that North Sails have been so dominant. North Sails IRC designs were the foundation of the Cape 31 One design rules. Starting as the sole sail maker in South Africa with tri-radial paneled,  North Sails have worked to perfect their 3Di sails since the Cape 31 arrived in the UK in 2019.  After countless hours sailing, testing and competing in the Cape 31, North Sails shares our tuning notes in an effort to get sailors and teams up to race winning speed quickly for the most competitive racing. As we learn more about the Cape 31 and further its development, new information regarding setup, tuning and trimming techniques will be updated online at northsails.com. As always, contact your North Sails Expert for all the most up to date information and for help tuning your boat. Tuning Guide Dock tune Mast heel position: 135-145 mm from the aft edge of the mast to the center of the front keel bolt. Set the mast heel position to achieve the desired pre bend (see below). Moving the heel aft increases pre bend, moving the heel forward reduces pre bend. Setting the mast rake: 1,710mm. To do this, put a mark on the forestay, and measure the distance from this mark down to the middle of the forestay pin at the deck intersection.  Swing the fixed end of the jib halyard back to the mast and mark the halyard in line with the top of the gooseneck measurement band. Next swing the jib halyard forward to the forestay and mark the forestay in line with the jib halyard mark.  Measure the distance from the top of this new forestay mark to the middle of the forestay pin. On most boats this is the load sensor pin, the pin that the tack of the jib attaches to. The next step for tuning the rig is to make sure the mast is square in the boat.  Set the shroud tension close to base tension and loosen the D1’s (& D2’s).  Swing the jib halyard from one shroud base to the other and make sure the hounds are in the middle.  Tighten the D1’s (& D2’s) back up to the tuning guide and make the mast look straight side to side. Base deck chocks: It is best to have light pressure on the front chocks. A good base deck chock setting is normally 4 to 8 mm of positive chock (fill the gap in front of the mast, plus 4-8mm). It is worth checking that when on +1 chocks compared to base that there is still a small amount of pre bend. Moving deck chocks has a large impact on the D1 tension. Measure pre bend by pulling the most forward main halyard down to touch the back corner of the lowest bit of the mast track just above the gooseneck (see image). Pull the halyard tight on a calm wind day and then measure the gap between the back of the mast track and the nearest piece of rope. Pre bend is measured at the height of the lowest spreaders. Measure on base with base chocks in and with the runners loose and the boom down. The ideal pre bend is between 40mm and 50mm. Tuning Matrix This tuning matrix is developed for the unique 3Di North Sails technology. 3Di is a fundamentally unique construction process leading to lighter and stronger sails. TWS (kts) V1 “Shrouds” (PT-3) D1 “Lowers” (PT-2) D2 “Uppers” (PT-2) Forestay  Deck Chocks 4-7 Base -2 Base -3 Base -2 Base -8 Base +1 8-9 Base-1 Base-2 Base -1 Base -4 Base 10-11 Base Base-1 Base Base -2 Base 11-12 (Base) Base (20) Base (35) Base (25-27) Base Base 12-14 Base  Base +1 Base Base +2 Base 14-16 Base +1 Base +1 Base Base +4 Base 16-18 18+ Base +2 Base +3 Base +1 Base +2 (37) Base Base Base +6 Base +8 Base  Base -1 Each turn listed on the tuning matrix above is a 360 degree turn.The numbers in brackets on the tuning matrix are rig tensions.  Battens A couple of stiffnesses of carbon full length battens in the head of the mainsail (and jib) help to perfect the sail set up across the wind range. North Sails have standard recommended batten upgrade options, please get in contact with a North Sails expert to discuss this further.  Jib Trim Crossovers Helix technology in the jibs defies conventional sail design limitations enabling one sail to perform optimally across a wider range of conditions than ever before. Engineered for active camber control, Helix upwind sails enable sailors to radically adjust and control sail shape and power as well as minimizing luff sag by adjusting the jib halyard fine tune. J1 (J1-3): 5 -11 knots *new design J2 (J2-1) 10 –17 knots *new design J3 (J3-3) 15-21 knots *new design J4 Heavy Weather OSR (J4-3): 20+ knots *new design Storm Jib: for use to satisfy a class rules requirement instead of taking the J4 sailing. JIB CARS. It is best in light and medium winds to be max inboard on the car. If out of range, or at the very top of the range, on a jib going one step outboard on the jib car works well. There is jib car height adjustment line next to the main hatch. Car height is the main car tuning tool for setting the depth and twist in the jib.   SPREADER MARKS: It is really useful to have spreader marks on the underside of each spreader. Place these in the center of the spreader and 150mm inboard and outboard of the central mark. Mainsail Trim MNi-5: All purpose mainsail *new design TRAVELER. Maximum height and power are generated by having the traveler all the way up in light winds. In strong winds it is best to not go far below the centerline with the traveler car, use the fine tune to twist open the main. Once overpowered it is fastest to only have the traveler just above the centerline. Easing the traveler is one of the first moves to depower. RUNNERS. Off in sub 6 kts, then progressively tighter until max combined headstay / tack load of 1.8 tonnes. 1.8 tonnes is the max load according to the builders. OUTHAUL: Just loose so the sail is not touching the boom below base, and then tighten it when the wind builds. CUNNINGHAM: Off downwind and in light winds. Progressively pull it tighter as the wind builds, especially when sailing at/over +4 on the headstay. This helps to bend the mast and flatten the mainsail whilst holding the draft forward.  Downwind  Spinnaker Crossovers A1.5:(A1.5-2) 5-9 knots *new design A2 Minus (A2 Minus-1): 8-12 knots *new design A2 (A2-1): 11-18 knots A4 (A4-3): 18+ knots A3 (A3-3) Reaching Techniques In light airs the kite flies best and the gybes are best with the jib lowered. In over 8 knots of true wind speed sail VMG angles based on heel and apparent wind / true wind angles. It is fastest to leave the jib up. RUNNERS. Loosen the runners downwind to generate depth and power. Keep the windward runner snug. When the wind increases, tighten the runners just enough to keep the headstay straight / tight. Further Information Please get in contact with a North Sails expert to further discuss techniques and settings. Ben Saxton - North Sails Class Lead ben.saxton@northsails.com +44 7962 238 742 Crossover Chart READ MORE

Modern sailcloth begins life as industrial fiber and film. Some of these products are well known to sailors by a specific supplier’s brand name. A better understanding of the characteristics of these fibers can be helpful in choosing the right sails for your boat. READ MORE

Remember when your spinnaker was new—how crisp and clean the material felt and the way it crinkled going into the bag? The whites were white and the colors were bright, and it even smelled like the brand new nylon that it was. READ MORE

North Sails offers three material options to help you find the right sails for your needs. Every North cruising sails is custom-designed for your boat and sailing style. By matching the right materials to your sailing goals, you'll be even happier with your new North sails. That could mean easier furling and flacking, smoother tacking and jibing, headache-free sail handling and storage or optimum performance and longevity. Cruising sailcloth comes in three styles: woven Polyester dacron, cruising laminates, and 3D composite material. Each provides a different balance of durability and performance. Dacron fabrics are the toughest and most structurally stable. Cruising laminates offer lighter weight and increased shape holding. 3D composites are a new generation of cruising materials with exceptional shape holding and structural integrity beyond many laminates. READ MORE

RIGGING THE 3Di HELIX MOTH SAIL Featuring North Sails Moth Expert Rob Greenhalgh Follow Rob Greenhalgh, a National and European title holder in the International Moth Class and the North Sails Moth Class Leader as he demonstrates rigging the 3Di Helix Moth Sail. Released in 2022, this 3Di molded sail features a fully integrated Deck Sweeper and luff tube along with Split Batten Technology developed by North Sails for a smooth sail shape. Greenhalgh was instrumental in the two years of development that went into creating this fully molded seamless sail. So between his intimate knowledge of the performance potential of this sail and its relation to the boat, Rob is the perfect person to walk through rigging your sail for optimal results. Have questions about Moth sails or how to rig for speed? Contact Rob for more information. READ MORE

This guide is designed to add additional support information to sailors rigging their International Moth Helix sails for the first time. There are some fundamental differences with the Helix sail, ‘twin-skin’ split batten technology, compared to previous models. The Helix sail offers a large step forward in performance, however, there are some new learnings required when rigging, which once understood, is neither complicated nor time-consuming. Initial Set-Up When your sail arrives the following should be included: 1. 7 x Full Length Split Battens 2. 6 x Decksweeper battens – Glass RB 3. 13 x Rocket Adjusters 4. 6 x mast cups. Numbered 1-6 These battens should be cut to length and there should be no requirement to adjust the length of them. Please contact a North Sails representative if you feel the battens need to be adjusted. Any batten length adjustment should be off the back of the batten and not from the split end.   Batten lengths may vary +/-20mm These parts should be fitted, but if not, take the following steps:   Battens Step 1: Batten Cups The battens cups need to be threaded onto the webbing strap found inside the luff tube. The webbing strap prevents the cups from moving in a vertical direction whilst sailing, hence the cups grip onto the strap quite tightly. Once the cups are threaded onto the webbing strap, pass the strap down the luff tube, ensuring to remove any twists from the strap. The Cups may need adjusting slightly once you are rigged. Follow the impression of the batten along the batten pocket and aim to keep it aligned or fractionally on the high side of the pocket. The webbing strap may be overlength and can be cut to length – around the height of the boom. There is no requirement to locate the lower end of the strap. Step 2: Batten insertion Batten #1 The top batten doesn’t have a mast cup. There are however 2 batten pockets on the luff tube, one on each side. The split batten end needs to pass into each of these pockets. The batten pockets are offset so that each of the split tips can be inserted in turn. Put your hand up inside the luff tube from the zip at batten #2. Pass the tip of the #1 batten into the pockets on each side of the sail. This process can be slightly tricky but easily managed and only has to be done once. Batten #2 - #7 These battens are to be inserted from the rear end and then the split tip is inserted into the receptacles on the rear face of the cups. There are sacrificial pieces of plastic within these receptacles that are designed to break and distort to add friction to the batten and prevent it from falling out. The batten will need to be pushed firmly into the batten cup receptacle. At batten #7 there is a batten holder on each side of the luff tube. Each half of the batten needs to be passed through these. Add rocket batten tensioners to all battens. Step 3: Deck Sweeper Battens There are 6 x deck sweeper battens that can be fitted and rocket tensioners added. The diagonal deck sweeper battens are the only battens that need removing for de-rigging and sail rolling. Rigging Step 1 Insert the mast into the luff tube, as per all previous models, ensuring to pass the mast above the battens and not through any of the split battens. Note: Avoid wrapping the mast tip around the webbing strap At batten 7 there are batten holders on each side of the luff tube, the mast must pass in front of these. Once the mast tip reaches batten #2, the uppermost batten cup, ensure to thread this batten cup onto the mast (pushing the mast in front of the cup). Continue to push the tip of the mast into the head of the sail. Step 2 Shuffle the luff of the sail down the mast until you can see the forestay and spreader fittings. KEEP ALL BATTEN CUPS OFF THE RIG AT THIS STAGE (except for Batten #2 – cup #1) Step 3 Continue to rig the sail onto the boat. Attach the clew and boom vang. Some pre-bend will be required to attach the batten cups. Step 4 Once there is some pre-bend, achieved by some vang load, the next step is to put the batten cups onto the rig. Work from the top down, carefully putting each cup onto the rig. Normally twisting them slightly can help to get them on. Once all the cups are on, slide the luff tube downwards and attach the cunningham. De-Rigging Aim to do the above procedure in reverse. Remove cups from the rig before releasing the clew. This de-loads the sail and it's far easier to remove spreaders etc. Tuning & Race Set-Up Battens In general batten tension should increase from top to bottom. Aim for one or two small creases in batten #1, one crease in batten #2, half a crease in batten #3, and no creases in battens #4-7. Luff round and sail camber can be tailored with batten tension in the lower battens. Adjusting batten tension to different wind conditions will produce performance variation as the batten tension will increase camber. Batten cups When fully rigged with vang and cunningham loads @ 70% ensure the battens run along the batten pockets and the cups are not sitting too high or too low. Aim to have the batten and cup just high within the batten pocket. There are a few nuances to this new design, but once understood, rigging time is very similar to previous models. Please feel free to contact Rob Greenhalgh with any questions. READ MORE

Proper boat speed depends mostly on constant and consistent adjustments to your rig and sails. The following measurements are those we have found to be the fastest settings for your new North Sails. READ MORE

STRENGTHENING YOUR SAILS FOR THE SYDNEY HOBART YACHT RACE How To Maintain Your Sail Inventory For The Offshore Racing Season Ahead Preparing for the Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race is a bit different to any other event due to the nature of the type of conditions and weather the race can present. Whether you’re racing in each lead up race possible, or using the race to tick off the bucket list item, making sure your sail inventory is in good condition can have a big impact on your race. North Sails Expert and Service Manager, Nick Beaudoin, has a wealth of experience when it comes to sail planning and servicing. And the key to ensuring your sails aren’t going to let you down, is preparation. “The thing with the Sydney Hobart, is that the fleet tends to also be doing the Blue Water Pointscore, so the service preparation actually starts in October for most of the fleet.” comments Nick. “What we recommend is to keep the maintenance up while they’re racing. It’s what we work on over the four months of ironing out all the little details of the inventory and getting the sails ready over that longer period of time. It’s all planned three to four months ahead of time, which really is right about now in early October.” “At the beginning of the season, our North Sails team will start having conversations with customers about the sail services they may need for the offshore season ahead. It could be jib recuts, main recuts, IRC remeasuring, spinnaker flying checkovers to repair tears, all the little things. It’s about dialing in the inventory for the individual clients.” Maintenance Is Key Sail servicing isn’t just about repairing sail issues, but keeping your sail inventory in good working order to both extend the lifespan of your sails and achieve your best performance on the water. “Most of our customers know how we operate, so they’re very familiar with the process – every race week they’ll get their sails in, we’ll do a service, see if they have any issues, and we go forward from there with enough lead time. The maintenance comes down to essentially a weekly thing for them.” North Sails offers a one week turnaround at the major yacht clubs in Sydney, when every Monday the team collects the sails in the North Sails lockers at Cruising Yacht Club of Australia, Middle Harbour Yacht Club, Royal Sydney Yacht Squadron and Royal Prince Alfred Yacht Club. The team then conducts general maintenance and repairs during the week, and delivers them back to the yacht clubs on the Friday. “We like the Blue Water Pointscore, as it’s one race per month where we can assess what each yacht needs pre and post-race. The sails will come in that have any repairs needed, or need to get looked at if you’re unsure. For the majority of the fleet, it’s very hard to pull their sails out unless there’s a park or somewhere they can go with enough space to do it.” Jibs In Working Order With the range of conditions and sail changes to be expected during an offshore race, jibs can endure a lot of wear and tear over time. However, Nick has some essential tips to extend the life of your jibs, to keep the luff tapes in good condition, check the battens and batten tension. “As it’s not always easy to just pull your sails out on any given day for maintenance checks, it’s about crews being very observant when using the sails. Having your crew conscious of the shape and condition of the inventory, especially your foredeck team being conscious of the sails if they notice anything, luff tape damage, battens on the jibs, or if they notice any chafe from stanchions or any of the high-wear areas and just keeping an eye on it.” “We like to encourage jibs to come in for post-race luff tape repairs. It’s a very small thing that can cause a lot of grief, you don’t need your bowman up there mucking around trying to get the headsail plugged in, so we like to stiffen the head and very top of the luff tape so it can’t open up.” Flying Spinnakers After the last Blue Water Pointscore race and as the Boxing Day start of the Sydney to Hobart approaches, the timeline for major repairs becomes tighter. Preventing the larger sail issues can be one of the easiest ways to ensure you’ll be on the start line, and spinnaker checkovers are high up Nick’s list of race preparation maintenance tips. “Again, it’s very hard to assess a sail properly unless you’re pulling it out in the park, and you know exactly what you’re looking for. When we fly a spinnaker, we have two to three people put the sail in the air and look up underneath it, to look for any holes. If you just have the sail on the ground it can be easy to miss things.” “We’ll also check the tensions on the luff, leach and foot lines, because over the course of the four months of sailing, ropes shrink and most likely need to be eased off and re-tensioned. You’ll find different setups denote different tensions and you evolve as the boat spends more time offshore.” “Usually the foredeck team has eyes on the sails, as do the trimmers, so just picking up on any potential issues early and getting the sails into the loft to fly, check over, pull out and repair as necessary is a great way to prevent more expensive and possible race-ending damage.” Maintaining Sail Performance Committed to helping you maximize your performance with your sail inventory, our North Sails Service team also provides sail recuts and re-measurements. “A service we offer for 3Di sails is to look at recuts for performance. As sails get older, say two to three years old and it’s been used offshore, it may need a little attention.” Nick explains their process to restore the sail to peak performance shape, “In jibs and mains, as the sails become round over time, we do slices to reduce the broad seam, and straighten the leach exit. It’s glued and bonded in the same process as when they’re manufacturing 3Di sails, so it’s very very strong, and a simple thing to do to increase performance.” “Another thing is remeasuring for rating certificates. As we approach the deadline to get your certificate in for the Sydney Hobart, we encourage our clients to get their inventories in to us. Jibs are a big thing as luff tapes shrink over a period of time, as once the luff tape shrinks, the luff actually gets smaller. Leading into Hobart, remeasuring is something we like to offer our customers to improve their overall performance, especially at the pointy end of the fleet.” Nick says, “Now is the time to be preparing for the Sydney to Hobart. For everyone on board it’s just about making sure that whoever is on the boat, whether it be the owner, helmsman, or crew, they understand they’re part of the team to be aware of the issues.” “These conversations all start at the beginning of the season, and there’s nothing last minute about the Hobart race!” Contact your local North Sails Expert to make sure your sails are ready for the offshore season ahead. READ MORE

ZEKE’S J70 TIPS TO THE PODIUM Lessons Learned at the Helly Hansen Sailing World Regatta – Marblehead 📸 Chris Howell As usual, the town of Marblehead pulled out all the stops for competitors to descend upon the quaint New England town for a weekend of racing in multiple one design classes. The J70 class showed up in full force with most of the top American teams including several class World Champions. At stake were two 2 qualification spots for the 2023 Worlds in St. Petersburg (1 open, 1 Corinthian) so the racing was as tight and competitive as ever. As crew for John Heaton on Empeiria, along with teammates Zach Mason and Will Felder, we were fortunate enough to come away with the Championship and a berth in next year’s Worlds. In addition, our North Sails teammates on Smokeshow, skippered by North Sails North American One Design Manager Allan Terhune with Paul Sevigni, North Sails Expert Chris Larson and Dave Hughes finished second, rounding out a weekend to celebrate for North Sails. Our team was successful at the Helly Hansen Sailing World Regatta Series Marblehead by relying on lessons we’ve learned over the past couple of years. Admittedly part of our success is due to having sailed together for over 2 years and there is really no substitute for being comfortable with and confident in one another – trust that comes with time. However, aside from our team experience, there were past lessons we drew from during this event that helped us stay fast in the wide range of conditions presented. The J70, due to its rig and hull dimensions, is a boat that has a very fine line between being underpowered and overpowered. The conditions in Marblehead exaggerated this characteristic as the wind range was constantly hovering on either side of this fine line. So it was imperative to adjust your sail and body trim to accommodate for either the lack of power or abundance of power since it was rare to have the rig tuned perfectly. Following are some of our tips that should help keep you fast through the transitions in your next race. Outhaul The outhaul is one of the controls that’s easiest to ‘set and forget!’ But it’s actually an incredibly important adjustment for your power package. Due to the high aspect ratio (tall and skinny) of the J70 mainsail, the outhaul affects a larger area than it does on a sail with a lower aspect ratio. So a quick ease of the outhaul will put a boost of power into your sail plan to give you something to hike against. Our team has learned to be very diligent with this adjustment when we are transitioning from hiking to bodies in. Zach is our jib trimmer and we try to leave him in the boat the longest so he has a view of the jib as long as possible. If he is in the boat, we leave the outhaul quite loose to power up the main and try to get him hiking. We’re desperate to get him hiking as more righting moment = more speed! At this setting there is probably 6-8 inches between the boom and the foot of the main. As soon as he’s able to get on the rail and start hiking, we pull the outhaul back on to flatten the main and reduce drag. Any time Zach moves in or out of the boat, we make the appropriate outhaul adjustment. Jib Foot/ Inhaul How much to inhaul the jib can feel like quite the moving target… and it is. Its important to set the weather sheet in the cleat in a place where the jib trimmer can play it by “banjoing” it on when we need more power and then easing it back when we want to flatten the bottom of the jib and open the leech. When set correctly, this can be done without adjusting the weather sheet in the cleat. Think about your jib lead and inhaul setting similar to how we set the outhaul as described above. In light air or chop, you want more power in the bottom of the jib which means you want more depth in the foot compared to when it’s windy or flat water. A good rule of thumb is to try to get the foot of the jib to contact the cabin house as much as possible to prevent air from jumping through the gap under the foot. If it’s windy, you’ll need to pull the lead back a bit to depower the sail in order to inhaul enough to bring the foot to the cabin house. If it’s light air, you’ll need to push the lead forward a bit in order to provide enough depth in the foot (power) when the foot is along the cabin house. A good range on the jib lead is between 6 – 7.5 holes showing between the front of the car and the forward most factory bolt in the jib track. Cunningham The cunningham tends to be neglected just like the outhaul. Most of the time it’s not the most critical adjustment to make but there is a time when it becomes your very best friend. We saw this condition on the second day of racing in Marblehead when the breeze ranged from about 8 knots in the lulls to upwards of 16-18 knots in the puffs. We all know it’s best to set your rig tension for the lulls and do your best to survive the puffs and that’s where the cunningham comes in. For most, if you’re caught with your rig too loose, your first move is to whale on the backstay to depower and keep the headstay tight. But the problem is that without adequate rig tension, the tight backstay will quickly invert or wash out the main sail leaving you with huge overbend wrinkles and that ‘inside out’ look. But your headstay is still unstable making the boat hard to sail. This is when you want to really whale on the cunningham. To be clear, I don’t mean to just take those luff wrinkles out, I mean WHALE on it! Loads of cunningham tension pulls the draft of the main forward, putting some shape back into the sail (un-inverting it). This then allows you to pull even more backstay on to control the headstay. Your leeward shrouds will be doing basketball sized loops – blowing in the wind, but your headstay will be controlled and you’ll still have shape in your mainsail – albeit a flat shape. Will sits all the way forward going upwind and he keeps the cunningham in his hand. If we hit a light spot, he eases the cunningham as I ease the backstay to power up the rig and then as the next puff hits, he trims it on as I trim on the backstay. Keep your eye on the inversion wrinkle that comes out of the clew and goes up to the inboard end of the bottom batten. When overpowered, you want to see this wrinkle only and use the cunningham to eliminate the wrinkles below/forward of it. More cunningham = ability to pull more backstay = more controlled headstay = FAST! Weight Placement The J70 likes to have the crew weight forward going upwind. In fact, in light air it’s difficult to get forward enough. Some teams have experimented with sending their forward-most crew just in front of the shrouds and it seems to be pretty quick when the breeze is very soft. It’s also important to know that fore/aft weight placement can help the boat with moding. All other things equal, pushing weight forward tells the boat to point while moving weight aft helps with a bow down mode. In light air, it’s also important to think about body drag through the air. Try to hide the bodies from the wind as much as possible by tucking up to the cabin house or to your teammate in front of you. Also think about how you can position your body to be as aerodynamic and small as possible. Instead of facing forward with your shoulders square to the breeze, scoot forward and rotate your shoulders so they’re more in line with the wind direction. Sounds insignificant but reducing drag is the name of the game, It seems like no matter how much we learn in the J70, we’ve never learned enough. It’s important to always be thinking critically and creatively about how to get faster. Keep the learning curve steep and watch your results improve! For more in depth information or for any specific questions, don’t hesitate to reach out to your J70 class North experts. Contact your North Sails J70 North American Experts here: ZEKE HOROWITZ ALLAN TERHUNE ALEX CURTISS READ MORE

THE SCOW SAILOR’S GUIDE North Sails Tuning Guides, Webinars and More 📸 Hannah Lee Noll North Sails has been manufacturing and designing championship winning scow sails for over forty years and look forward to doing so for forty more. The North Sails One Design team has a long tradition of serving one design fleets all over the country and we look forward to working with you! Our network of local one design experts and dealers are available to help you get the most out of your sails so you can reach your goals whether it is an informal evening race, or the Class Championship. North Sails is continually developing and improving our products and services to enable you to sail faster is not just our goal; it is our obsession. “The North Sails team will have a presence at every major scow regatta on the calendar, and we’re dedicated to providing the latest tips, tricks and tuning info to get the most out of your North Sails scow designs. We have put a huge effort into modernizing our product line using the best software, best materials and hundreds of hours on the water to refine the designs,” says North Sails Expert, Jeff Bonanni. Get to Know Your Class Experts Allan Terhune has won eleven North American Championships (in the Lightning, Flying Scot and Thistle Classes) and was crowned the 2013 J/22 World Champion, a two time E Scow Eastern Champion crew and is the current ILYA MC Scow Champion. Allan is also a class expert in the E Scow, MC Scow, Etchells, J/70, J/80, J/88, J/105, J/111 with many podium finishes in each class. Allan is a resident of Annapolis, MD. In 2007, Terhune was awarded US Sailing’s One Design Leadership Award and named Rolex Yachtsman of the Year Finalist in 2008 and 2013. Allan has been with North Sails since 2007. Jeffrey Bonanni has won 5 National and North American Championships, including the 2015 E Scow National Championship. He is one of a small handful of helmsman to have won all 6 National Championship trophy races. Jeff actively races in the E Scow, Melges 20, Melges 24 and Etchells classes, as well as coaching the Northeast’s top junior sailors on Barnegat Bay. Jeff currently serves on the National Class E Scow Association’s Board of Directors and is the Commodore of the Eastern Class E Scow Association. Jeff is a resident of Little Silver, New Jersey and a graduate of Boston College, where he was an ICSA All American Skipper. Eric Doyle – Eric was raised in Pass Christian along the Mississippi Gulf Coast, where he learned at a ripe young that he was hooked on sailing. Eric began his career at North Sails in 1992. Shortly after starting at North Sails One Design, he was hired by Dennis Conner to sail with Stars & Stripes America’s Cup campaign in 2000. Continuing on he raced with BMW Oracle for the 2003 and 2007 America’s Cup campaigns. Eric’s passion is with smaller keel boats like the Etchells, Melges 24, and J/70, but his favorite boat is the Star in which he won the World Championship in 1999 as skipper and the coveted Bacardi Cup in 2019! Eric is currently based in our San Diego Loft and when he’s not racing or coaching he’s constantly working on R&D sails for the One Design team. Tim Carlson – Tim Carlson has been selling North Sails for over 5 years as a North Sails representative in the Upper-Midwest and offers a wide variety of services to the vibrant sailing scene in the Twin Cities. Tim is proud to serve the members of Wayzata, Minnetonka, and White Bear Lake Yacht Clubs which host some of the most competitive weekly races in the country. While Tim is fluent in the ways of inland lake sailing, he is no stranger to offshore sailing on the Great Lakes. Over the years, he has participated in the Chicago Mac, Bayview Mac, Trans-Superior, and many more. 📸 Hannah Lee Noll Tuning Guides North Sails Experts carefully create and update each class’ tuning guide each season and upon the launch of new sail designs. Make sure you are optimizing your rig, sails, and boatspeed by downloading your class’ guide below. A SCOW E SCOW – Newly Updated in May 2022 C SCOW MC SCOW M-16 SCOW M-20 SCOW X-BOAT Client and Expert Testimonials “After North updated their sail selections recently the Magnum has been the only sail that I use. Upwind it is easy to trim and keep the boat on rails but downwind is where it really shines. I was sold on it once I realized I was able to keep pace in the light stuff with the smaller sailors. ” – Sean Bradley “E Scow racing rewards the teams that put in 100% effort around the race track. The boat is so dynamic and fast, you’re always within striking distance of the next pack. My favorite races are not the wins, but the races where we passed thirty boats to finish fifth.” – Jeff Bonanni “The MC Magnum is a powerful sail. The results are here and we are very confident that the MC Magnum will be a huge success this summer. We made some significant changes to the MC Tuning Guide, including shroud tension and board angles, which are crucial for boat speed. Make sure to check it out! The MC Magnum is a MUST HAVE!” – Allan Terhune Webinars North Sails Experts and Class Champions conduct regular webinars to touch on teaching moments from past events, discuss changes to the tuning guides, explain new sail designs and their intricacies and take the time to answer your questions. Take a look through our collection of Scow Webinars, and learn something new from a class expert! NORTH SAILS SCOW WEBINARS READ MORE

CODE SAILS DEFINED What Is A Code Sail? The term ‘Code Sail’ means different things to different sailors. What started out as an innovative and straightforward concept has rapidly evolved into a whole new category of sails. While Code Sails may look and perform quite differently from one another, there is one common theme: Code Sails are fast, flat, free-flying sails, designed for close reaching angles. To understand all the different names and versions, it may help to look back at the origin of these sails. Originally “Code Zeros” were designed to qualify as spinnakers under various rating rules that require the mid-girth to be 75% of the foot length. Volvo Ocean Racers coined the term Code Zero, which fit into the established North Sails coding convention: A1, A2, A3, etc. This design also became popular among handicap racers under Rules like IRC, ORR, and PHRF. As their effectiveness and ease of use became increasingly apparent, Code Sails expanded into cruising as well, and multihull sailors coined the term “Screechers” for their similar, specialized, high-performance reaching sails. Code Sails add a great deal of sail area and power for close reaching angles. Boats with non-overlapping headsails see the biggest benefit from Code Sails, as they better fill the inventory gap between upwind headsails and downwind spinnakers. REQUEST A QUOTE CONTACT YOUR LOCAL EXPERT LEARN MORE ABOUT CODE SAILS Helix Structured Luff: Code Sails Redefined While Code Sail is a term used by sailmakers across the board, in recent years North Sails has redefined what it means to have a North Code Sail, with the introduction of its Helix Structured Luff technology. A design philosophy first introduced for offshore Grand Prix, the performance benefits of Helix have reverberated around the sailing world, making Helix Code Sails the go-to tool for improving aerodynamics and increasing range. View this post on Instagram A post shared by North Sails (@north_sails) With their unique luff structures, Helix Code Sails give sailors another gear, increasing power potential by projecting the sail further forward and optimizing load sharing, for a positive sail shape and enhanced control. They are custom-designed – optimized to react to dynamic sailing loads, easily and efficiently handle torque for furling, and offer load-sharing characteristics suited to a much wider wind angle and wind speed range. As of January 2022, Helix is now a feature of all North Racing Code Sails. The exact implementation of the Helix Structure varies according to the specific version of Code Sail. When purchasing a Code Sail, your boat’s performance, target wind angles and anticipated wind speeds, your onboard sail handling systems, and the sail material you have chosen are all taken into consideration. Then, the sail is designed around your specific needs. Helix Code Sails and Mid-Girth Measurements Note: Some rating/handicap systems strictly limit the available mid-girth specifications of rule-eligible sails, barring sails with mid-girths greater than a headsail’s 50%/less than a spinnaker’s 75% . Other rating systems heavily penalize mid-girths greater than 50%/less than 75%. And other systems attempt to generate accurate ratings with no special consideration given to mid-girths between 50 and 75. Discuss with your North Sails representative the rating system under which you will be racing to determine whether and which any rule restrictions or prohibitions apply. Helix Code Zero Asymmetric Spinnaker – Mid Girth (SMG) >75% For systems that disallow mid-girths between 50 and 75%, this sail remains much the same in concept as the original Code Zero. The design requirement is the flattest possible sail with a spinnaker mid-girth of 75%. The challenge of designing and building a Code Zero Asymmetric Spinnaker is meeting the 75% girth measurement while producing a sufficiently flat sail shape with no excess area”flapping” in the wind. Code Zeros carry an unsupported mid-girth sail area that is not aerodynamically efficient for light-air close reaching. Code Zeros can be made in 3Di Downwind or Code style aramid laminates. Helix Code 50 – Mid Girth (SMG) <54% North Sails’ newest code sail, the Code 50 is a free-flying sail for offshore racing. Ideally suited to ocean racing Grand Prix yachts such as IMOCAs and Ultime Trimarans, it uses a new 3Di Downwind (RAW) 700 material, uniquely suited to the hybrid requirements of offshore, free-flying sails – exceeding the limitations of standard 3Di Downwind 600, 700 & 800 material. Helix Code 55 + 65 (SMG 51%-74%) A Code 55 has a 55% SMG while a Code 65 features a 65% SMG. (SMG is the width of the sail measured at half the sail’s height, expressed as a percentage of foot length). Code Sails with mid-girth between 50% and 75% are highly efficient and versatile sails. However, as noted above, these sails are sometimes treated unfavorably (if not outright banned) by certain rating rules. Where allowed, these Code Sails provide pure reaching performance – ideal for offshore racing, multihull sailing, and performance cruising. A smaller SMG percentage implies a flatter sail for closer wind angles, while a higher SMG percentage implies a slightly fuller sail for wider wind angles. An SMG less than 51% is considered a genoa, while an SMG greater than 74% is considered a spinnaker. REQUEST A NEW SAIL QUOTE CONTACT YOUR LOCAL EXPERT READ MORE

HOW TO SAIL SAFELY THROUGH A STORM Tips And Tricks To Help You Get Home Safe 📸 Kurt Arrigo/ ROLEX Compared to the quick response and sudden nature of a squall, sailing through a storm in open water is an endurance contest. In addition to big wind, you’ll have to deal with big waves and crew fatigue. Sailing in Waves Sailing in big waves is a test of seamanship and steering, which is why you should put your best driver on the helm. Experienced dinghy sailors often are very good at heavy air steering, because they see “survival” weather more often than most cruisers. Avoid sailing on a reach across tall breaking waves; they can roll a boat over. When sailing close-hauled in waves, aim toward flat spots while keeping speed up so you can steer. To reduce the chance of a wave washing across the deck, tack in relatively smooth water. A cubic foot of water weighs 64 pounds, so a wave can bring many hundreds of pounds of water across the deck. Sailing on a run or broad reach in big waves is exhilarating, but be careful not to broach and bring the boat beam-to a breaker. Rig a preventer to hold the boom out. 📸 Carlo Borlenghi / ROLEX Storm Sails If reefing isn’t enough to reduce power, it’s time to dig out your storm sails — the storm trysail and storm jib. They may seem tiny, but since wind force rises exponentially, they’re the right size for a really big blow. Storm trysails are usually trimmed to the rail, but some modern ones are set on the boom. The storm jib should be set just forward of the mast to keep the sail plan’s center of effort near the boat’s center of lateral resistance. This helps keep the boat in balance. Storm Strategy The first decision before an approaching storm is the toughest: Run for cover, or head out to open water for sea room? With modern forecasting, a true storm will rarely arrive unannounced, but as you venture further offshore the chances of being caught out increase. While running for cover would seem the preferred choice, the danger lies in being caught in the storm, close to shore, with no room to maneuver or run off. Two classic storm strategies are to try to keep away from land so you’re not blown up on shore, and to sail away from the storm’s path — especially its “dangerous semicircle,” which is its right side as it advances. Storm Tactics Storm tactics help you handle a storm once you’re in it. There are several proven choices, all of which aim to reduce the strain and motion by pointing one of the boat’s ends (either bow or stern) toward the waves. No one tactic will work best for all boats in all conditions. Sail under storm jib and deeply reefed mainsail or storm trysail. This approach provides the most control. Sails give you the power to steer and control your boat in the waves. Run before the storm with the stern toward the waves, perhaps towing a drogue to slow the boat. This tactic requires a lot of sea room, and the boat must be steered actively. Another concern is that you will remain in front of an approaching storm, rather than sailing out of its path. Heave-to on a close reach with the jib trimmed to windward. Heaving-to can be an excellent heavy weather tactic, though some boats fare better than others. Deploy a sea anchor while hove-to or under bare poles. A sea anchor is a small parachute set at the end of a line off the bow. A sea anchor helps keep the bow up into the waves so the boat won’t end up beam to the seas. One concern is the load on the rudder as waves push the boat aft. Another alternative is lying ahull, simply sitting with sails down. This passive alternative is less reliable than the other tactics, as you lose the ability to control your angle to the waves and may end up beam to the seas. Furthermore, the motion of the boat rolling in the waves without the benefit of sails can be debilitating. Want to order a storm trysail or storm jib for your boat? Contact a North Sails Expert here. How to Heave-To Wouldn’t it be great if, during a heavy air sail, you could just take a break, and relax for a bit? Imagine a short respite from the relentless pitching and pounding: a chance to rest, take a meal, or check over the boat in relative tranquility. Well, you can. The lost art of heaving-to allows you to “park” in open water. To heave-to, trim the jib aback (i.e., to the wrong side), trim the main in hard, and lash the helm so the boat will head up once it gains steerageway. As the jib tries to push the bow down, the bow turns off the wind and the main fills, moving the boat forward. Once the boat begins to make headway, the lashed helm turns the boat toward the wind again. As the main goes soft the jib once again takes over, pushing the bow down. The main refills, and the rudder pushes the bow into the wind again. The boat won’t actually stop. It will lie about 60 degrees off the wind, sailing at 1 or 2 knots, and making significant leeway (sliding to leeward). The motion will be much less than under sail, and dramatically more stable and pleasant than dropping all sails and lying ahull. You will also be using up less sea room than if you run before the storm at great speed. Achieving this balance will require some fine tuning, depending on the wind strength, your boat design, and the sails you are flying. Also, fin-keeled boats do not heave to as well as more traditional designs. In storm seas, some boats will require a sea anchor off the bow to help hold the boat up into the waves while hove-to. 📸 ROLEX Alternate Storm Strategy: Don’t Go If conditions are wrong, or are forecast to worsen, don’t go. If you can avoid the storm, then do so. If you’re at home, stay there. If you’re mid-cruise, button up the boat, make sure your anchor or mooring or dock lines are secure, and then read a book or play cards. Relax. Enjoy the time with your shipmates. Study the pile of Owners’ Manuals you’ve accumulated with each piece of new gear. Tinker with boat projects. Put some soup on the stove, and check on deck every so often to make sure the boat is secure. Shake your head as you return below, and remark, “My oh my, is it nasty out there.” If your boat is threatened by a tropical storm or hurricane, strip all excess gear from the deck, double up all docking or mooring lines, protect those lines from chafe, and get off. Don’t risk your life to save your boat. Misery and Danger Although everyone will remember it differently years later, a long, wet, cold sail through a storm can be miserable. As the skipper, you need to make the best of it: watch over your crew, offer relief or help to those who need it, and speak a few words of encouragement to all. “This is miserable, but it will end.” Take the time to marvel at the forces of nature, and at your ability to carry on in the midst of the storm. Few people get to experience the full fury of a storm. It may not be pleasant, but it is memorable. While misery and discomfort can eventually lead to fatigue, diminished performance, and even danger, do not mistake one for the other. Distinguish in your own mind the difference between misery and danger. Don’t attempt a dangerous harbor entrance to escape misery; that would compromise the safety of the boat and crew, just to avoid a little discomfort. Interested in a new sail quote or have questions about your sails? Fill out our Request a Quote form below and you will receive a reply from a North sail expert in your area. REQUEST A QUOTE READ MORE

19mm & 25mm BATTEN BOX Installation Guide North Sails full-batten mainsails come with North Sails adjustable batten boxes installed on the luff end of the pockets. Our batten boxes eliminate batten loss through “shake out,” allow easy compression adjustments, and create a closed, low-profile leech end. They are easy to use and require just five simple steps to install. Step 1: Using the supplied 3mm Allen Key, remove the retaining screw in the luff end of the batten box door by turning it CLOCKWISE. Step 2: Rotate the batten door down to get it out of the way. Step 3: Insert the batten into the pocket, making sure the batten is oriented correctly. Step 4: Close the batten door and tighten the retaining screw by turning it COUNTER CLOCKWISE. Step 5: Apply the desired amount of batten compression using the supplied 10mm driver to adjust the screw on the aft end of the batten box. Note: After sailing, the battens need may need additional compressing. If there are vertical creases along the batten pocket, increase batten compression until the wrinkles disappear. READ MORE

18FT SKIFF SPEED READING 3x World Champion Matt Steven Provides Insights To Racing 18 Footers © 18 Footers Australian League / Frank Quealey David McDiarmid, North Sails Expert Matt Steven, and Bradley Collins (NZL) have claimed the most desired prize in the 18-footer class, the JJ Giltinan Trophy in 2018, 2019 and 2020, making them three-peat Champions in the competitive class. The 2018 win was the first time in 45 years that New Zealanders won this event, which is considered the world championship of 18-foot skiff racing. As a result of their big win in 2018, David, Matt, and Bradley were awarded Orbit World Travel Sailors of the Year at the Volvo Yachting Excellence Awards, along with Dongfeng’s 2017-18 Volvo Ocean Race winning sailors Daryl Wislang and Stu Bannatyne. We checked in with middle crew Matt Steven about sailing 18-footers. Learn about what he has to say about choosing rigs, techniques, and how to sail an 18 to its full potential. Crew work on an 18-footer can be challenging, especially in breeze. “We have pretty defined roles on the boat to keep consistency with boat handling,” says Matt. “It’s all about having as few crossovers as possible and not letting the boat slow down.” Crew weight also affects the technique. “I am the heaviest onboard, so it often pays to keep me out on the wire. Sometimes Brad , our bowman, gets loaded up with a few more jobs during the maneuvers. Luckily he is very fit and strong and lighter than me!” One of the toughest things about 18’s, Matt explains, is rig choice. “You have two rigs for two wind ranges (0 -13 and 12-30 knots). However, within these ranges, there are a lot of different modes, so compromises have to be made, either at the top end or bottom end of each rig. It’s hard to have the ideal setup to cover an entire day’s worth of racing.” Though his team preferred their #2 rig, figuring out the right mode for each helped them adapt to changing wind ranges throughout each race day. They weren’t the only ones wrestling with rig choice each morning. “There is often a standoff on the ramp,” Matt explained, as teams wait for others to make their choice. “Normally we are happy to be on the same rig as the majority of the fleet, but sometimes you just need to back yourself on the weather forecast.” Rig tuning isn’t like other boats in the 18ft skiff. Matt explained that “the tuning tricks we have figured out ourselves over time, through practicing and spending time in the boat.” The 18ft skiff is fairly complicated, since almost every mast is custom built depending on crew weight and style, so there is not one specific guide for sailors.” Michael Coxon at North Sails in Sydney has a formula that most teams use. We have control over the rig with heel, and two sets of lower caps and primaries which we adjust accordingly as needed.” ©18 Footers Australian League /Frank Quealey Starting line technique is pretty similar to other fleets concerning positioning and acceleration however, the 18-footer can accelerate a lot faster. “One of the hardest parts,” Matt says, “is staying stationary and holding your position. Once you lose flow over the foils, it can be very challenging to stay in control.” Upwind and downwind techniques Matt said have similar concepts. “Body weight fore and aft, as well as knowing when to press hard are the keys to speed. Regarding tactics, staying in pressure is key… two knots of wind could make a 2-3 knot boat speed difference and a 10-degree angle change.” Matt’s team typically replaces two or three sails a year, depending on the number of events they compete in. “We have a good relationship with our design team,” Matt says, “so we understand our gear and how to use it efficiently.” He says it’s helpful to understand shape changes, even though only minor tweaks were made for the 2018 season. Matt’s team is sponsored by Honda, which enabled a wardrobe upgrade to 3Di for the 2019 season. This is a nice addition not only because of performance factors, but it meant they won’t need to replace sails as often. “The best thing about North Sails 3Di is that you know the shape is going to be the same each time you go sailing, and there is never a worry about structural failure. We have much confidence in the product. The added stiffness will allow us to have another dimension of rig tuning that was not available to us before. The sail controls will be more ‘tweaky,’ in a significant way.” 3Di + 18 FOOTERS The Orbit World Travel Award came as a surprise to Matt, who was just happy to win the JJG Worlds, as it has been his primary goal since he started sailing 18-footers. “We were very honored to be recognized alongside some amazing sailors for the Orbit World Travel Award. We are just normal guys who work day jobs that try and fit in as much training and sailing into our normal life. We have a desire to keep the trophy in New Zealand and make our fellow skiff sailors proud. We are happy to win for them, as well as ourselves and the New Zealand sailing community.” CONTACT MATT ORDER SAILS NOW © 18 Footers Australian League / Frank Quealey READ MORE

NORTH SAILS 2022 NEWPORT BERMUDA RACE TECH BRIEF Sail Selection and Inventory Optimization 📸 The Ocean Race When planning your offshore racing it is crucial to manage your sail inventory. An optimized inventory and sail selection will allow you to maximize performance and ensure your crew is prepared if and when conditions change. While necessary, multiple sail changes are time consuming and draining and having the right sails onboard will greatly contribute to a successful race. As Performance Partner to the Newport Bermuda Race, the North Sails team shares their expert advice on how to build a well planned sail inventory for the 2022 race. Sail inventory preparation requires extensive research, forethought and planning to get right. One tool used in planning, as Peter Isler referenced in the webinar, is a heat map which uses historical data to predict wind speed and angle for future time periods. Weather and routing data used in conjunction with your boat’s crossover chart will help guide inventory recommendations. Headsail and Spinnaker Selection On a non-overlapping rig, jibs are coded with a J and a corresponding number. As the number goes up, the higher the intended wind range of the sail. J1 – Performs best in 0-10 knots, while sailing close-hauled or close-reaching. J2 – As the wind increases to 11-20 knots, a J2 comes into play. J3/ J4 – Above 20 knots, a boat will carry a J3 and sometimes even a J4 (typically not full hoist, and sometimes set on an inner stay). Jib Top (JT) – A high clewed (provides a better sheeting angle), non-overlapping headsail that is used when you need to bear off, but don’t want to lose your leech tension. The Jib top will be deployed at different wind speeds (boat- dependent), as it is less area than the big reaching sails, and it helps to bring the effort lower down to the boat, allowing more control over the boat as wind speed increases. Overlapping boats will typically carry the following sails: #1 – 155% Genoa #2 – Typically between 130%- 140% depending on the track length and location #3 – Non-overlapping blade jib Genoa Top – Can be any LP smaller than the biggest Genoa. Handles the close reaching angles. Has the same high clew as a Jib Top for cracking reaching angles especially in breeze. When it comes to asymmetric sails for the Newport Bermuda Race, North Sails experts recommend an A1 and A3, which will cover the 0- 20 knot range, reaching angles. The A5 would cover a higher wind range, however may not be as relevant for this year’s race, due to the fact that most forecast predictions do not call for this wind range. An A2 and A4 are considered broader winded, running sails. Your A2 will be your biggest sail, as it is intended for VMG running, straight downwind. Staysails are often referred to as a “free sail,” in terms of a ratings hit. These sails increase performance when seeking extra height and essentially feed the wind on the back of the main. They also help reduce the gap between the headsail and the mast. Reach out to a North Sails expert to discuss options and recommendations for using a staysail. Code Sail Selection When thinking about your Code Sails, it is important to ensure your sails will cover the forecasted wind range and play to the strengths and weaknesses of your boat. Consider the rating penalties that correspond with each sail and your rig type. Try running a test certification and consult your North Sails experts for further insight. The graphic above shows the difference in the luff curve as you move through the Code Sail range. The more you decrease the mid-girth, the flatter the sail becomes, allowing you to sail tighter angles to the wind. Anything between 55% and 75% mid girth is considered a “tweener”, and counts as a “large roach headsail”. Again, your North Sails experts can help you decode what is best for your inventory. One option to increase range is using Helix Structure Luff sails. A radical design innovation once limited to Grand Prix Racing, Helix Structured Luff is now standard on all North Code Sails. A Helix sail uses load sharing technology with the sail’s structure to improve its aerodynamics and in many cases reduce the load on your equipment. The benefit in a distance race like the Newport Bermuda Race is maximizing performance since these versatile sails carry across a wider range. When looking at the typical Newport Bermuda Race weather, there is a lot of time spent sailing at various reaching angles between 0-15 knots. An advantage of Helix is it allows for a wider crossover with other sails, whilst providing better luff projection for a more powerful sail shape through the range. By engaging the structured luff, trimmers can change sail shape on demand to meet the wind and weather conditions. When considering your course speed, Helix can help you limit multiple sail changes to maintain full power across more miles. HELIX CODE SAILS Safety Requirements and Precautions Lastly, safety preparation is vitally important to ensure a successful offshore race and should be a deciding factor in sail choice. A storm jib and storm trysail should be in your inventory, but a mainsail with a reef that is 50% of P is an acceptable substitute for a trysail. It must attach from a different point than your main boom, be a highly visible color such as orange, red, or green, with easily visible sail numbers. Make sure your sail repair kit is reviewed and freshly stocked prior to the race. The North Sails service experts recommend having glue, shammys/ towels to properly dry a ripped sail, denatured alcohol, a good knife, palm, leatherman, seam rippers, needles, thread and webbing in your inventory. North experts can provide tutorials for any repairs needed and can also provide a custom patch kit of sail cloths/colors to match your spinnakers. Connect with Your Local North Loft Get your sails into the loft ahead of time and consider remeasuring headsails if you are looking to help your rating. Connect with your local North Sails loft to get started today. GET IN TOUCH WITH AN EXPERT Still have questions? Watch the Newport Bermuda Race Sail Selection and Inventory Optimization Webinar with North Sails Experts Tim Dawson, Austin Powers, Jack Orr and Will Bomar. READ MORE

ORC WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP 2023: PREPARATIONS START NOW Sights Set on Kiel, Germany 📸 Felix Diemer The news that the Offshore Racing Council, ORC World Championship is coming to Kiel again in 2023 has triggered a real hype throughout the worldwide fleet of ORC sailors. For the local fleet in Germany, this will mark the season highlight of the next two years and after two seasons of events being influenced by the pandemic, there are hopeful signs for a sporty and ambitious summer of sailing. If you want to be there in 2023, ideally, preparations should start now. Those who start preparing in good time not only reduce the risk of nasty surprises, but also go into the World Championship with greater composure. Someone who knows the ORC scene like the back of his hand is North Sails expert and sailmaker Bertil Balser. As a native of Frankfurt, Germany, Bertil has been sailing since he could walk and took his first steps in the world of offshore racing in 1996, when ORC was still called IMS (International Measurement System). Several National and International successes later, as well as one or the other rule loophole (keyword: “Berta”), Bertil is not only an impressive sailor, but also the ideal contact for all questions about ORC sailing. Reason enough, then, for us to quiz him with a series of questions in the run up to the World Championship, starting off with a few basic questions about ORC sailing: How well do you know the ORC formula? As there are countless measures that add to the overall rating, you can basically change and adjust virtually anything concerning the boat’s performance. This makes the ORC system both very technical but also somehow intuitive. The question here is: Which screw is worth turning and which one should you avoid touching in the first place? After more than 15 years in the ORC circuit, I can judge quite well what makes sense and what doesn’t. What is key for a successful ORC campaign? Good material and a clean underwater hull are one thing. But the other thing is having a crew that not only harmonizes, but also really trusts and works together. I recommend North Sails 3Di RAW 780 for your upwind inventory, and our Superkote Spinnaker styles for your downwind inventory. We will be sure to find your weapon of choice amongst our product range. 📸 Felix Diemer When should preparations for the 2023 World Championship begin? Such a campaign always goes through phases of varying intensity and each team has its own dynamic. However, no matter how you choose to run your campaign, the following still applies: time is ticking. If you want to be there in Kiel in 2023, you should start preparing today. The more time you have, the easier it will be to get material and crew into a competitive mode. As always, the devil is in the details. What advice would you give to crews with limited previous experience? Be sure to get started! Every project starts with the first step. What many do not know is that often the step from ambitious Wednesday sailing into the ORC world is much smaller than it might look from the outside. How to contact you with questions? To get in touch with Bertil directly, please email him at bertil.balser@northsails.com, or click here to talk with an expert at your local loft. We look forward to hearing from you and our team of experts will be happy to help you get closer to achieving your goal at the 2023 ORC World Championships. What is your greatest personal success? That is hard to say. The four victories at the IDM See – most recently with the X-41 Sportsfreund – were certainly just as much a highlight as various podium positions at World and European Championships. When “my” team became European Champions in 2019, I was involved with fatherly joy on the home front, so a gold medal is still missing. One more reason to attack again in 2023! TALK TO AN EXPERT READ MORE

LET’S TALK RIG TUNING WITH ANDY RICE & CHARLIE CUMBLEY North Sails One Design Expert Charlie Cumbley Joins Andy Rice To Discuss Etchells & J70 Rig Tune Join North Sails One Design Expert Charlie Cumbley joins Andy Rice from Sailjuice.com to share the art and science behind optimal rig tuning and boat setup. Browse the North Sails Etchells/ J70 class page for news, tuning guide, and inventory options or contact North Sails Expert Charlie Cumbley below. ETCHELLS CLASS PAGE J70 CLASS PAGE CHARLIE CUMBLEY READ MORE

WHAT YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT YOUR BATTENS Batten Installation and Tensioning Instructions for All Sailors Thinking about battens? Preparing for a new season is something that is on everyone’s mind. Whether you’re staging your boat to launch, planning an extended cruise, or hoisting your sails for a weeknight club race, it’s important to make sure you’ve got your battens installed properly and tensioned correctly. Checking your battens will provide better sail shape and performance – and ensure you don’t lose them after the first tack or jibe! Sail expert Hugh Beaton from North Sails Toronto explains some important details to remember. Proper installation for proper sail shape. Make sure the battens are inserted with the tapered (thin) end towards the luff and the stiffer (thick) end towards the leech. We sometimes see battens interested the wrong way and as a result, the sail will not have the correct draft (depth) and curvature (location of maximum depth) – so it is worth double checking that the batten is oriented correctly. Make sure your battens are secure. Some battens enter from the luff, others from the leech so check to make sure that the closure system where the battens have been inserted has been properly secured. For North Sails Velcro closures, there is a specific compartment for the batten, and another for the two surfaces of Velcro to make contact. Lashing systems have another procedure to follow, as do RBS wing tip end caps. In all cases correct installation will keep the battens securely in place for the season. 📸Mike Egan Correct tension creates a smooth sail. Your batten tension also needs to be looked at. If there is insufficient tension there will be a number of vertical wrinkles along the length of the batten. If there is too much tension there will be visible horizontal tension pulling along both sides of the pocket, with the fabric looking stressed. When the tension is correct, the batten pocket is smooth and correctly supports the designed flying shape of the sail. Have questions about your battens? or need help with proper installation? Please reach out to your local North Sails representative for guidelines and instruction on how to make sure your battens are loaded correctly and your sails are ready for the season. Learn more with North Sails batten specific installation guides. READ MORE

ROLEX SYDNEY HOBART RACE 2021: HOW TO WATCH THE GREAT RACE North Sails Has You Covered For the 76th Edition The Rolex Sydney Hobart Yacht Race is a staple on the Australian sailing calendar, and a much-anticipated event for sailing fans around the world. Each Boxing Day, hundreds of sailors, watched by thousands of shoreside spectators (pre-Covid of course), depart Sydney Harbour for the trek to Hobart. This 628nm offshore classic is renowned for being one of the most difficult races in sailing. Throughout the years there have been both moments of triumph and tragedy. Our sport’s highest-profile teams sign up for the Sydney-Hobart with hopes of claiming line honors and, if the weather is right, smashing course records. Amongst the fleet there is a variety of boats- comprised of unique sailor skillsets and crews made up of professional sailors, family members, and friends. Take for example North Sails apprentice Manny Scott and Sail Expert Aaron Cole. 2021 marks Manny’s third Rolex Sydney Hobart Race, and he’s sailing with his father— a 15-time race veteran. Aaron Cole is participating in this year’s race for the nineteenth (!) time alongside his wife Jade, who is celebrating her milestone 10th race. They say this race is a family tradition for many participants, and we’re proud to have been onboard for these memories. North Sails has a storied history with the Rolex Sydney Hobart Yacht Race. Our Australian-based teams have collectively sailed in hundreds of races, while North clients have consistently found themselves at the top of leaderboards over the years. With the 2020 race canceled, the year’s fleet is chomping at the bit to get the 76th edition of “The Great Race” underway. Here is what’s in store and how you can follow along: Weather Forecast: Gabrielle Woodhouse, forecaster from the NSW Bureau of Meteorology, delivered the race’s long-range weather forecast. The fleet should be ready for southerlies and possible thunderstorms early after the Boxing Day start, and a series of transitions afterwards, which all but erase expectations of a record-breaking race. Read more from the official pre-start press conference on the Rolex Sydney Hobart website. If you’re in Sydney… Spectator boats positioned in the eastern channel can watch the race start, then can follow the fleet down the harbour to the iconic Sydney Heads before heading out to sea. Once underway, the fleet will move quickly, so if you want to see the leaders sail through the Heads, it’s recommended to get a ways down the harbour towards Middle Head before the start. At the Heads, make sure to keep well clear of the rounding marks. If you only plan on watching the start, head to the western side of the harbour. Good vantage points for spectator boats include: Taylors Bay, Chowder Bay, Obelisk Bay and North Head on the west and Rose Bay, Watsons Bay, Camp Cove and South Head on the east. For our global audience watching from home: Watch a webcast of the live broadcast on the homepage of the Rolex Sydney Hobart Yacht Race website. If you miss the live webcast, a replay of the start program will be available on the website as well. Included on the website is the complete list of yachts entered in the 2021 edition of the race. You can also view past race data including past results, historical reports, and statistical information; designers of line and overall winners; and profiles of some of the race luminaries over the years. Follow along on Social: Official race social channels will keep followers updated start through finish. There will be a live stream of the start (which can be viewed after the fact), as well as race updates, Line Honors announcements, an Overall Winner Declaration, as well as a Regatta Recap. Rolex Sydney Hobart @rshyr @RolexSydneyHobart North Sails @north_sails @NorthSailsWorldwide Track the fleet: Track the 2021 fleet from start to finish by utilizing the link for the Tracker below. Yacht Tracker uses a specially designed tool that calculates the predicted results for each and every boat in the fleet, so you can see how each boat is performing. Each competing boat is given a tracker that will obtain a position using the GPS satellite network and then transmit that position back to HQ using the Iridium satellite network. Positions will be updated every 10 minutes TRACKER Play along: Cruising Yacht Club of Australia has teamed up with Virtual Regatta to provide the Rolex Sydney Hobart Race Game, allowing virtual skippers to race the same route as the boats that will be participating in the Rolex Sydney Hobart. Sign- up and join the Race by clicking the link below. JOIN VIRTUAL REGATTA 📸 Carlo Borlenghi / Rolex READ MORE

Sydney Hobart Tool Kit The Rolex Sydney-Hobart is fast approaching. Does your team have what it takes to take on this 628nm race? Here is what you should know before you leave the dock. Created just for you, by your local team of offshore racing experts.   Provisioning Sarah O’Kane from Shorebase Logistics is familiar with this race and many like it. Hear more on what’s important when it comes to properly provisioning before any offshore marathon, like the Sydney-Hobart.   Learn More   Crew Watch Systems To get the best out of everyone while racing the boat hard around the clock, the skipper or sailing master needs a clear view of each crew member’s skill sets.   Learn More   Navigating Australian summers can make for the ultimate offshore experience. Be prepared for everything with Chris Bedford, world renowned sailing meteorologist with 30+ years of experience and expertise in marine and coastal meteorology.   Learn More   Reefing Systems Sailing in big breeze can be fun, exciting, maybe stressful, and expensive when things go wrong. Reefing a sail quickly and easily when the breeze comes on is key to looking after your sails and your crew.   Learn More Post-Race Sail Service Crossed the finish line and need a sail repair? North Sails Certified Service Experts will be onsite and ready to get your sails repaired so you can get back in action.   Learn More Winning The Delivery Back Home Preparing successfully to compete in the biggest offshore races requires putting your attention to every detail. From the start of the delivery trip all the way to the starting line of the race, here’s what you need to know.   Learn More   READ MORE

LEARN TO LOVE SAILING IN HEAVY AIR If Sailing In Breeze Isn’t Your Strong Suit, You Are Not Alone © Barracuda Communications When I was about ten years old I starting racing sailboats on Cape Cod and the sound of the wind whistling overnight through the pine trees outside my bedroom would make it hard to sleep. Even the next morning I’d have a knot in my stomach when I woke. Forty years later, I still get the knot in my stomach with just the thought of sailing in heavy air but luckily, I’ve learned more about the technique and in turn, have become more confident when it comes to heavy air sailing. If sailing in a strong breeze intimidates you, you are not alone, but you can learn to get better at it and actually start to dominate in the breeze. Here are some tips to help shake your nerves and get you confident for that next heavy air event. Wear a Lifejacket Seems pretty basic, but there was a day when wearing a lifejacket was not as prevalent as it is now. As soon as the breeze comes up, put one on yourself and make it mandatory that your crew do the same. It will give you more confidence to be more aggressive in moving around on deck and when trimming/pumping your sails. And it’s the right thing to do. Know your Settings Once you are out on the water and it starts blowing, there is no time to be figuring out how many turns to go up on the rig. Be sure to pre-measure your rig tension and know how many turns it takes to get to your heavy air settings for each wind speed. Setup your Boat so it’s Easy In all boats, flat is fast in breeze. It’s also important to keep the boat on an even angle of heel. If the boat is constantly heeling over you tend to use more rudder which creates drag, which will eventually cause the boat to stall out head to wind. Concepts to keep in mind: Set Up for Twist. Tight leeches on the main and jib will make the boat more sensitive to tipping over each time you get a puff. To induce twist: Sail with the backstay VERY firm Ease the main and jib (simultaneously) Vang on hard if effective on your boat. This will flatten the lower portion of the main and open the lower leech Play the sails. Play the main especially to keep the boat on an even angle of heel. The smaller the boat the more you play your sheets. Keep the traveller on or slightly above the centerline. Try not to Hit Waves Dead-on. If you do, at least make sure the boat is flat. Back when I learned to sail the mantra with steering in waves was to “head up the face of the wave and bear off on the backside of it. Today we use as little rudder as possible to steer around the big sets. Inevitably, you will hit waves, and some straight on. When you do, be sure your boat is flat. The boat will stop, but if it is flat it will not slip sideways as much. Have fun. Sailing in heavy air is exhilarating. Enjoy the process of getting better each time you go out in a breeze! READ MORE

SAIL RECUTS & ALTERATION METHODS Benefits, Usage, and Common Examples We don’t hear much about sail recutting and alterations, although it is still a big part of the sailmaking world. Because sail fabrics have improved dramatically over the years with sail shape holding and chafe-free components (like 3Di), the days of major recuts are not as prominent as they were in the days of strictly laminates, Dacron, and polyester sail materials. However, many clients worldwide are getting sail alterations, and altering sail shape has not only helped them optimize their inventory, it has given new life to sails that are in perfectly usable condition, but perhaps retired from high-level racing programs. Noel Drennan, One Design Manager based in Sydney, Australia commented; “In the early days of Dacron and Kevlar cloth, racing yachts required constant recutting to keep the sails close to their original racing shape– and we are glad those days are over!” Why a recut? Recutting a racing sail usually starts with getting a photograph of the sail while the sail is in use while sailing in its correct wind range. We take a series of sail scan images from the foot up and compare those images to its original, intended flying shape. The measurements are also compared to the original dimensions so we know what has changed in sail shape. The principles of recutting to keep the sails at premium racing shape is still the same as the old days but the recut is substantially less often and down to the smallest increments of change required, which is a fraction of what it used to be with only traditional sail materials. North Sails 3Di has an incredible composite structure which prevents delamination like that of a string-type sail. Delamination is another common reason why a client would request a recut. Noel comments; “It’s nice to know that any reshaping or alterations of your sail is not wasted on a failing base structure, rather the normal up-keep and maintenance required to help a materials lifespan.” 📸 Ian Roman Ben Costello, Service Manager based in Auckland, New Zealand comments; “Sometimes getting a sail recut from another boat to fit is a great option. For some owners, a new 3Di type product for racing may be above their budget, but because many high-level grand prix teams (often found in the TP52 fleet) replace their sails more frequently, it doesn’t mean their one-year old sails are no longer usable or have lost integrity. Their sails still have plenty of life left, and are perfect for a club racing team that has a tighter budget. A small recut or luff curve adjustment to get the sail to fit their type of boat can be cost effective and can help the team achieve more speed and better results.” With restricted class rules, when it comes to the number of sails, recutting is a great way to get the most of what you already have, just slightly modified to be class approved/ or better usage potential instead of going out and buying a completely new sail. This also applies to boat owners who find themselves with a similar boat but slightly different. If it’s close to the same size, and same luff and foot dimensions, the sail can most likely be recut to fit the new boat, or made into something that the new boat can use. Examples of common recuts Common recuts consist of horizontal cuts or seam alterations, also referred to as ‘moon pie’ alterations which are either lengthening the material or taking up (cutting shorter). When a sail has seen three or more seasons, this is when this type of recut would most commonly take place as the sail has experienced extensive UV exposure and shrinkage. An example of a sail recut would consist of a larger grand prix style boat that wants to add a little luff curve to their light air headsail. When the sails are used more often, and for different things, it is not uncommon to see them in the loft to add a little bit of extra to certain areas of the sail, which in turn allows the increase in performance. A Kerr 40 jib at TWS at 11 knots. Image taken before sail recut, showing the degradation in the target light air flying shape. Standard sail recuts often occur every two years. For an older sail where the base material is still in good shape, a small recut can still make great improvements in performance. Everytime the sail is used, it causes wear of some kind. This can affect the shape of a sail; be it from hitting a stanchion on every tack, pressing on spreaders, maneuvering around radar, or even a mast light. These can cause the sail to hook or dump off on the leech-end. We can refer to a genoa for example. You could get a small take-up on the material under a patch which can easily help straighten the leech. Another example of a sail recut would consist of a larger grand prix style boat that wants to add a little luff curve to their light air #1 jib/genoa. When the sails are used more often, and for different things, it is not uncommon to see them in the loft to add a little bit of extra to certain areas of the sail. Ben comments; “Often we have customers that change their forestay set up to a furling system. This is when we would cut down the existing headsails to fit on the furler and then convert a racing jib to have a hollow-down near the tack to connect to the furling unit. A common alteration we’ve seen lately is adding reefs to headsails to help fill in a gap that some boats have in their inventory, especially for shorthanded sailing where they need less sail area and reefing is easier to do underway than a full jib change. Sometimes clients get new masts, which mean they need to make their existing sails fit the new mast height. This is all part of maintaining balance of the boat, allowing more or less rake.” Spinnakers often get resized for a variety of reasons. A more common scenario of this is reducing or increasing the sail area to fit the type and usage of the boat, to minimize or maximize power. A sail recut that would make the spinnaker smaller and more manageable, and be ideal when the boat sails shorthanded. Sometimes boats end up with kites that are made for larger boats. After testing it out, the client may realize it’s just too much and the boat is overpowered. This could entail simply removing a panel from the spinnaker to make it slightly smaller, and fit better into the size range for that size boat. The Kerr 40 jib at TWS at 12 knots. This image is after the sail recut.The sail is flying at its original design depth and profile. “An alteration we’ve done lately is adding reefs to headsails to help fill in a gap that some boats have in their inventory, especially for shorthanded sailing where they need less sail area and reefing is easier to do underway than a full jib change. Sometimes clients get new masts, which mean they need to make their existing sails fit the new mast height. This is all part of maintaining balance of the boat, allowing more or less rake. Spinnakers often get resized for a variety of reasons. A more common scenario of this is reducing or increasing the sail area to fit the type and usage of the boat, to minimize or maximize power. A sail recut that would make the spinnaker smaller and more manageable , and be the result of having less hands onboard. Or maybe a client has a spinnaker for a slightly larger boat, and wants the kite to be a bit smaller so they are not overpowered. This could entail simply removing a panel from the spinnaker. Sail recuts and alterations are as important as maintaining sail servicing, says Noel. “This is the best way to maximize the lifespan of your investment. Sail servicing should not be thought as just repairing tears in the cloth– it’s way more than that. It’s amazing what little changes we can make to sails by recutting that affects the overall performance of the boat and helps clients who are looking for some in between, competitive inventory options.” 📸 Amory Ross / North Sails READ MORE

CRUISING MULTIHULL Q+A Loads, Sail Selection & Recommendations 📸 Amory Ross Q: How do sails for cruising multihulls differ from that of a cruising monohull? A: Because a multihull does not heel and release the wind load when the pressure hits, multihull sails must be able to handle higher wind loads than monohull sails. This means every aspect of multihull sails and rigging must be up-specked compared to a monohull. Mainsails generally have more roach, spinnakers are a little flatter in cut, and headsails tend to be smaller and more substantial, as it is the one sail used across the wind ranges. Q: Why is sail selection important for a cruising multihull? A: The wind load increases quickly on multihulls, and you need sails that are built to handle the load spike when the apparent wind moves forward. Know the limits of your sails and their intended wind range and angle of sailing. Every boat will be different, but understanding your sailing angles and crossovers are vital to getting the most out of your boat and also having a safe and more enjoyable sailing experience. Q: What are some of the go-to sails that you recommend for a performance cruising catamaran? A: The G-zero is an excellent versatile downwind option. It has a massive range of use and can be sheeted in quite hard for lighter wind well forward of the beam and used right through the wind range up to say 25 knots true when eased out and tweaked forward. With such a wide range of use, the G-zero cruising gennaker makes it perfect for cruising multihulls. Plus, it is easy to furl away and small to stow. The G2 cruising gennaker is a great running option with plenty of horsepower; if you want to cover miles, this is the best sail to get downwind. Square top mains with head release systems get you low down horsepower, great for coastal cruising and reaching and downwind. The automatic twist of the head can assist when going to windward in more extreme or gusty conditions. 📸 Amory Ross Q: Can you have too many sails? A: Yes, you can have too many sails. Ideally your sailmaker would design a wardrobe that gives you crossover points and sailing angles that cover the full sailing range. It would be best if you also had a plan for how to stow the sails onboard. Ideally, you will create your plan before getting your inventory so you can organize them below deck to protect them from the elements and access them with ease. Q: What about storm sails for multihulls? A: Even though they hardly ever get used, storm sails are important. Again, a plan is required so you can access this sail if you need to. For example, if you have three reefs in the main and can easily set up and deploy a storm jib, you will gain more balance and be able to control the boat in 40+ knots of wind. A storm jib can get you to a safe harbor to ride out bad weather if needed. Q: How do you decide on sailcloth for various sails on a cruising catamaran? A: The first thing to consider is the environment the sails are going to be subjected to in particular humidity. The strength of breeze for the region the boat is planning on sailing can have an impact also. For instance, global cruisers who want to cross oceans short-handed need super durable sails and engineered for the worst, but someone spending most of their time in the light winds of Asia would appreciate a lighter suit of sails. Q: Some of our multihull owners have 3Di sails. What are 3Di sails and why are they a great product for my type of boat? A: 3Di sails are very lightweight, easy to handle, have a long lifespan, and excellent shape retention. Best of both worlds! 3Di sails have a monolithic structure. They’re made over a 3D mold with special materials that don’t delaminate (ever) because of the unique fabrication process. Q: What other sail technologies can I get for my performance cruising catamaran? A: 3Di Downwind sails are evolving from racing technology and making a very light and durable downwind option, which is excellent in tropical conditions. Performance sails that are suitable for both extended cruising and racing in all climates is a considerable shift in the cruising multihull market. The traditional compromise to make a choice, either way, has almost gone with 3Di ENDURANCE and 3Di OCEAN products. Sail hardware continues to evolve, and there is a trickle-down from the French racing boats. Reef locks are a useful feature that is suitable for ocean passages when you need to relieve the load from the reef lines and prevent wear. Q: What can multihull sailors do to make sailing easier for short-handed crews? A: User-friendly furling systems and partial furling can be a great way to step down the horsepower. Correctly sized torque cables make a big difference to downwind furling sails and can be added to older sails. Reef-able headsail structures give you more options to balance the boat quickly and reduce power. Look for well-spaced reefs to help your team; smaller, incremental changes in reefing are not suitable for short-handed setups. Q: How about sail trim? What key tips can you offer to trim sails on a cruising catamaran to get optimal performance? A: With the mainsail, there isn’t a vang, so it can over twist easily. Watch your leech telltales, and in a moderate breeze sheet in until they fly at least 50% of the time. A tweaker outboard on the boom can help control excessive leech twist and stop boom pump and accidental jibes. With the headsails, slide tracks forward when the sails are eased, or tweak the sail outboard and down to control the leech, just like the main. Stop pumping and over twisting to avoid the upper leech shaking and fatiguing. Q: I need new sails for my boat. What are your recommendations on how to get a new suit of sails for my multihull? A: Talk to your sailmaker. Discuss your needs and wants and how your current sails have performed and any aspects that you would like to improve. Tell them about your planned sailing and common conditions you experience. With that information, they will evaluate your entire sail wardrobe. Your sailmaker will look at what you have, assess what you need for what type of sailing you are doing, and plan when you will need to replace any sails in the future.From there, they’ll design your new multihull sails to best suit your ideal wind range and sailing angles. Every sail is custom designed and built, which gives your sailmaker the opportunity to truly optimize your inventory. Be open-minded to your sailmakers’ suggestions as everything keeps evolving and improving. There may be gains to be made that ultimately will result in a safer and more enjoyable cruising experience. Interested in cruising sails for your multihull? Contact your nearest North Sails expert today! READ MORE

OPTIMIST V-SERIES QUICK TUNING TABLE Important Settings for Key Performance Power your new North Sails Optimist V-Series mainsail for speed following the recommendations on this quick tuning guide. BASE SETTINGS Sail ties can be adjusted in the range of 1-5mm in light wind and heavy wind to have comfortable depth and shape. LIGHT WIND: Smaller space at the middle so that leech becomes easier open. HEAVY WIND: Wider space at the middle so that you can make the shape comfortably flat enough to reduce the power. Sail Ties Top 2 mm Middle 2 mm Bottom 2 mm * Parallel to the mast. Distance of space distribution to be made from top to the bottom. Adjustment is required only for suitable sail shape (depth) for each condition and to be done only when needed. These are sometimes required depending on mast stiffness and sailor’s weight, but only when if needed. BASIC TRIM Wind Range 0-8 knots 8-12 knots 12-16 knots 16-24 knots 25+ knots Mast Rake 2780 – 2800 mm 2770 – 2790 mm 2770 – 2780 mm 2750 – 2760mm 2790±10mm Sprit Wrinkles Some Wrinkles A Few Wrinkles Wrinkles Wrinkles Vang No tension in upwind Light tension in upwind Tension Lots of tension Cleat with main sheet trimming harder Prebender 2 turns / Some Slack at Luff 2 turns / Some Slack at Luff No Wrinkle at Luff Tension on Luff Tension on Luff Center Board Max Max Max 0-50 mm up 30-70 mm up OUTHAUL CONTROL – VERY IMPORTANT FOR KEY PERFORMANCE! You have to pay attention to the outhaul to adjust it properly according to the conditions and sailors weight. You need to find the best position that fits your weight, mast rake( boom position), sea status, weather helm feeling for each condition. Playing outhaul in the range of 20mm at the boom end. Ease it maximum in 10-14knots and clew end has to be located 30-40mm away from the boom end. FLAT WATER – Trim 10mm more than the normal position. LIGHT / VERY STRONG WIND – Bottom to be flattened comfortably. READ MORE

‘HOW TO’ WITH BOUWE BEKKING Introducing a 7-part Video Series Geared to Cruisers We’ve teamed up with our friends at X-Yachts and are excited to release an all-new ‘How To’ video series aimed at every type of cruiser. All seven videos are now live and available to watch on the North Sails YouTube channel. As a seasoned eight-time Volvo Ocean Race sailor, professional Dutch sailor Bouwe Bekking turns his hand to the world of cruising to share his knowledge onboard an X-Yacht. Joined by North Sails Expert Jesper Feldt, Bekking talks us through the key aspects of sailing a cruiser, from boat maneuvers to trimming every sail in the inventory. Filmed throughout the summer on the waters of Øresund near Copenhagen, Denmark, these videos provide tips and tricks on handling a cruising boat fully equipped with North 3Di ENDURANCE. READ MORE

ARC PREPARATIONS & SAIL SELECTION FOR OFFSHORE North Cruising Experts Join the World Cruising Club for a Live Webinar North Sails cruising experts Jeremy Smart, Bob Meagher, and Ridgely MacKenzie join World Cruising Club’s Andrew Bishop to discuss sail selection for offshore bluewater sailing and ARC Preparations. This webinar is a particularly beneficial watch if 2022 is your year for the ARC. For those who missed the live stream, catch up on the topics covered, including why sail design matters, the North upwind and downwind cruising products range, and critical features of an offshore cruising sail. Service expert Ridgely MacKenzie also explains how to make the most of our global network of service lofts.   READ MORE

INVENTORY RECOMMENDATIONS FOR LIGHT AIR CRUISING Top Picks, New Additions, Rigging and Tuning Tips 📸 Amory Ross / North Sails Being prepared for whatever Mother Nature serves up is key to maximizing your cruising adventures. Our cruising experts share their inventory top pick, which sails to consider adding and light air rigging and tuning tricks. An all-purpose cruising gennaker is a great first step. It offers a broad range of horsepower and can be used for higher and lower angles off-wind. Cruising gennakers are great for both tight reaching and broad reaching. The Helix Furling Gennaker is North’s new option that is a reliable, top-down furling sail. The Helix Furling Gennaker is lighter weight and meant to be furled, providing easy, accessible horsepower that isn’t problematic. Most cruisers don’t sail upwind as often as they sail off-wind, which is why gennakers have become more popular and highly recommended as the perfect all-around sail choice. Code sails are another great inventory option for more experienced cruisers. Code Zeros and G Zeros offer an extensive amount of power, which a lot of cruisers don’t realize until they’ve sailed with one. The convenience of a full-batten mainsail outweighs the performance. It’s a quick option for boats with a lazy jack set up so at the end of your sailing day, you come in, simply let the halyard go and secure it to the boom. Enjoy your cocktails sooner! Full-batten mainsails also offer more support when it comes to sail shape. With standard cruising mainsails there is more time at the end of your day making sure your sail is put away properly. Keep in mind, your local North Sails service team can retro-fit any cruising mainsail with battens to help extend the life of your sail, improve sail shape, and make the derigging process quicker and easier. It’s standard to have reef points, especially in cruising sails, which will give more flexibility when it comes to reducing sail area which is key in long distance cruising, especially if weather is expected (or unexpected!). Foam luffs on genoas also aid with flying shape if you are not ready to add a spinnaker or gennaker to your inventory. Foam luffs have more side to side symmetry and can assist with flying shape, especially for DDW angles. There are an array of different sail options that can support cruisers of all kinds depending on their needs. Contact your local expert to get help deciding which options may be best for you.   View this post on Instagram   A post shared by North Sails (@north_sails)   Upwind inventory top choices 3Di OCEAN is a great step up from traditional materials. It lasts longer, is lighter weight, has lower stretch, and provides more stability– which makes cruising more comfortable. NPC CROSS-CUT is the preferred dacron option for everyday cruising. NPC RADIAN would be our recommendation for in-mast furling system setups. When it comes to headsails, a 135% genoa is a great place to start. Keep in mind, no sails want or like to be furled, so 3Di OCEAN is the most robust product that will last the longest and withstand furling. Our Favorite Inventory Additions For cruisers willing to leave the comfort of the cockpit, a spinnaker snuffer is the way to go. They are easy to hoist and when it comes time to douse, you simply pull a line, the sock comes down, and it drops on deck. This can be set up too where the sock drops directly into the front hatch. If you are not up for going to the foredeck, that’s where the furler comes into play. Both options are affordable, but all depend on what you are willing to do and your set up. Furlers are also convenient when you want to leave the sail up for extended periods of time. Simply unfurl or furl whenever you want. External cables come into play depending on the furler you have and the sail type you choose. With North Helix Structured Luff, there is no external cable. Rig Settings and Tuning Moving the fairlead forward will allow for a more powerful sail shape. Halyard tension should be tighter in stronger wind and more sea state, looser in flatter water and lighter air. When it comes to weight placement, if you know you’ll be on the same tack for a long time, adjust things below deck accordingly. It’s good to accept a bit of heel, as this helps keep the sails powered up and keeps them full as the breeze dies off. Once you’re set up for speed, all you need to do is keep an eye on the instruments. Outhaul should be eased, as well as cunningham and vang which controls leech twist. Too much twist in lighter air conditions will de-power the boat. For downwind sail settings, you can float the tack when you are running. As the wind lightens up, you want the tack lower. Ease outhaul, cunningham, vang to control leech twist. You don’t want too much twist because that de-powers the boat Floating the tack is an option: Running in more breeze you can raise the tack up Light air day you want the tack a little lower than you normally would Attachment points for non-conventional rigs: Sometimes the headstay doesn’t go all the way to the bow, so we install a pad eye in front of the headstay and a free floating block. You can purchase a keeper that will keep the tack from floating from side to side. Acts as a bowsprit with a fixed tack point. Tack will sit just above the bow pulpit, 3-4 feet from the headsail and with two snap shackles in the back and the right lines leading back to the cockpit makes an affordable/ simple option. 📸 Amory Ross / North Sails READ MORE

HOW LONG DO 3Di SAILS LAST? North Sails expert Mark Bradford explains that 3Di sails last “longer than you might think” 📸 Cate Brown Most sailors shopping for a new 3Di sail ask, “how long will it last?” Based on years of record-keeping, I can honestly say that the competitive life of a 3Di sail is far superior to any other technology on the market. It’s also much better than 3DL, our previous molded technology. There are far too many variables to predict precisely how long a sail will last, but we now expect race sails to remain competitive for several seasons. That’s a significant change from a decade ago, and it makes perfect sense once you understand how 3Di sails are constructed. The biggest killer of sails is UV. 3Di sails contain zero Mylar (the main culprit of delamination, use environmentally stable thermo-set adhesive (as opposed to thermoplastic hot-melt) and have a UV protectant added to the outermost surface. They’ll stand up better to the sun than any other sail material. The surface might degrade a bit, especially in the tropics, but those top layers protect the basic structure. As a result, when older sails come into our loft for annual maintenance, we often have trouble finding any damage at all. One great example of 3Di’s extended life comes from the annual race from Sydney to Hobart. I sail on Black Jack, and before 3Di, we often carried a spare main in case we blew up the first one. Now we’re doing two or even three races with the exact same sail, all thanks to the longevity and reliability of 3Di compared to either 3DL or our competitor’s so-called high-performance options. Our customer’s buying habits have changed, too. Before 3Di, whenever a customer bought a new race boat, they’d buy three mains: inshore racing, offshore racing, and deliveries. If they took outstanding care of their inventory, they might get three years out of the offshore and delivery mains and one to two years out of the inshore main. But changing mainsails can be a day’s work for several people, so after seeing how fresh the VO65 3Di sails looked after at the end of the last two Volvo Ocean Races, some of the hundred-footer crews got savvy and delivered the boat home again with the race sail. When they realized the main looked exactly the same even after all those extra miles, that one-mainsail trend trickled down to the smaller race boats as well. Today, even our most particular racing customers with new boats are only ordering a single mainsail. So that’s the best vote of confidence we could imagine about how well this product lasts. And it’s also a lot less hassle for them because once they get the sails set up on their boat, they’re not tweaking and adjusting and switching one in for another and vice versa. They’re simply pulling up the sail, using it, and then putting it away. And 3Di isn’t limited to racing boats. In 2020, North Sails introduced 3Di Ocean, a full product line engineered to deliver the benefits of 3Di to the cruising community. For example, we used to tell offshore cruisers that Dacron sails would last for one circumnavigation. Now we tell them they could do two or three laps around the world with the same sail inventory, as long as they have them serviced at one of our worldwide lofts. Whether you race or cruise, your new 3Di sails will undoubtedly last longer than you think. And it will last longer than any of our competitors’ products. What you’ll experience is a greatly extended lifespan, the longevity of a stable sail shape, and fewer replacement sails less often. Yes, 3Di is a premium product and may initially be the more expensive option, but its cost of ownership over seasons is unmatched. For more details, contact your local North Sails expert today. 📸 Cate Brown READ MORE

LET’S TALK MOTH WITH TOM SLINGSBY, IAIN JENSEN & ROB GREENHALGH 2021 Moth Italian Nationals and Foiling Week Recap Having claimed victories at the 2021 Moth Italian Nationals and Foiling Week, both Jensen and Slingsby are at the top of their game in the class. Learn from this panel of Moth experts and look ahead to the upcoming World Championship in Malcesine, Italy. READ MORE

FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF THE HELIX FURLING GENNAKER – PURPOSE-BUILT FOR CRUISING North expert Bob Meagher gives his first-hand experience and explains why you should consider adding this sail to your cruising inventory. I’ve been fortunate to serve hundreds of cruising multihull sailors in the past 20 years, often with downwind sails designed to eliminate the terrible feeling of performance loss when these boats bear away under mainsail and genoa. Apparent wind, boat speed, and the sense of freedom all plummet when the upwind sail plan just can’t make the boat go past a certain point, and you can almost hear the engine key whispering, “turn me!” Most owners have learned how cruising Code Zeros offer very convenient “ beam reaching” performance but require larger-than-zero asymmetrical spinnakers for sailing deeper angles. I was always happy to offer two sails to cover wind angles from close reach to broad reach/run. And while this is still the best choice for those wishing to have optimum performance over the greatest possible wind range (ie. long-distance cruisers), I’m honored to have been part of the North Sails development team for a new “single-sail” solution – the Helix Furling Gennaker. I’ve experienced the Helix Furling Gennaker on various catamarans, from high-performance cruising McConaghy 60 to a more traditional Lagoon 46. I have been thrilled to learn its benefits and satisfied with its inevitable limitations. At the dock, you’d think you’re looking at a Code Zero. It lives up, and furled, on the bowsprit or bow, ready to deploy. Looking more closely, you see a very tight roll in the top third, an area where other Code Zeros can roll too loosely. Unlike standard Code Zeros, North designed the Helix Furling Gennaker to roll from the top-down, not the bottom-up, eliminating a loose furl toward the head that tends to catch the wind and sometimes even shake loose in a big breeze. And once unrolled and sailing, other differences compared to a Code Zero become clear. A cruising Code Zero has a straight luff, supported by a thick (12mm – 19mm) cable in a sleeve up the luff, and a relatively straight leech, approximating a Genoa, but fuller. The Helix Furling Gennaker is cut more like an asymmetrical spinnaker, with a curved, forward-projecting luff and a rounder leech, resulting in a deeper sail, but one carefully designed to strike a balance. It has a very light, skinny, and flexible (8mm – 10mm) anti-torque cord running along the luff – but this cord has to carry only about half the load of an old-style luff cable. The sail itself features a structured luff to shoulder the other half of the load; allowing this lighter, smaller diameter cord to do a superior, trouble-free, job of top-down furling. When sailing closer to the wind, the halyard is tensioned tight like a Code Zero, enabling apparent wind angles of 70 degrees or a little better. The boat will perform exceptionally well when the sail is used like a traditional reacher (though the added shape in the sail does make it look a bit “knuckle-forward” when in Code Zero mode). It’s when you turn downwind that the real magic happens. Our goal was to make a sail that can point and perform like a Code Zero, and furls easily like a Zero – but with a significantly deeper downwind range. Bear off with the sail’s luff pulled tight and the sail suffers from the exact thing Code Zeros do: it ends up blanketed by the mainsail, and power is lost. But this isn’t a straight-luffed Code Zero – it’s an especially agile Gennaker, whose superpower activates when easing the halyard and sheet. Easing the halyard, so the sail takes its “spinnaker” shape, transforms the luff into a large, positive curve, deepening the center of the sail. Easing the sheet simultaneously allows the whole sail to rotate to windward, capturing more breeze, undisturbed by the mainsail. What was previously a beam-reacher just became a powerful broad reaching sail. If you want to sail even deeper on a cat, you can move the furled sail to a pad-eye on the windward hull and unroll it there, gaining another 10-12 feet of windward projection. We’ve sailed deep and stable to 125-130 degrees apparent wind angle (about 160 degrees true wind angle) in 18 knots of true wind speed. We didn’t need to sail above 90 degrees AWA in that much breeze because at that angle and higher, the main and genoa drive the boat just fine. When sailing deep with the halyard eased, the head will have a mild tendency to move around a bit. We experimented with achieving the same luff projection by allowing the tack to raise, but this meant allowing the furler itself to rise to maintain furling ability. It doesn’t make sense to have the furling unit bounce around two to three feet up in the air. Furling the sail does require a bit more attention than furling a cruising Code Zero. The thumb-thick cable in a code zero is always pretty tight, and it’s a skinny sail without much roach in the back, so furling a Zero can be almost as simple as a genoa (as long as you take care to not let it get too loose up top). With the Helix Furling Gennaker, the halyard should be re-hoisted fully, if it had been eased for broader angle sailing. A firmer halyard/cord transmits torque to the head better, and even more critically, a loose cord could be damaged if it kinks at the bottom when furling. Simple advice: get it tight before starting the furl. With larger sails of this type an electric winch is almost mandatory – not because there’s extreme load on the furling line, but due to the much greater number of rotations needed to furl a top-down system versus a bottom-up. Finally, unlike a straight or hollow-leech code zero, there’s more area toward the leech of a Helix Furling Gennaker, so you will want to keep an eye on the leech to ensure it furls without folding under or over on the way into the roll. If it does, stop furling and trim a bit of sheet — it will unwind some of the sail, and you can ease it back and try again. Learning the relative sheet tension to use when furling takes a time or two, but it’s pretty straightforward. And remember, if you’re furling in a hurry, ignore “neat and tidy” and just roll it up if you need to get the sail away. By far, the most gratifying successes of these sails came after I left the boat. All these owners sail with few crew – usually it’s just a couple enjoying their retirement, not interested in hassle. Following up with each of my clients some weeks later, I was thrilled to hear that the sails worked as well for them as they had during our trials. They remembered to tighten the luff before furling, had determined the ideal sheet tension when rolling the sail in, and were already playing with relative luff tension at various points of sail to get the most out of the sail. For each, gone are the days of struggling to get a large asymmetrical up out of a bow locker, or going forward in too much breeze to struggle with a snuffer sleeve on a pitching deck. Instead, the Helix Furling Gennaker offers a single-sail, from-the-cockpit solution, for sailors wanting more power. This is a terrific new sail type for a wide array of different boats around the world. READ MORE

2021 IC37 NATIONAL CHAMPIONSHIP Pacific Yankee Takes the Title 📸 Melges Performance Sailboats / Felipe Juncadella / UP TOP MEDIA Three days of offshore buoy racing tested IC37 competitors at the 2021 National Championships, and the last race of the event determined who would take home this year’s National title. Drew Freides and Bill Ruh’s Pacific Yankee made only one major mistake (race 6, an OCS) and were the swiftest boat out there, racking up only 15 total points after seven races and one discard. Skipper Drew Freides says they pride themselves on having a really good team. “We’ve got the crew work down pretty well. But it’s more of shifting gears and always keeping the boat going fast . I don’t think we’re faster than anybody, but we’re better at getting up to top speed more quickly.” John Brim’s Rima improved each day which put them in second overall with 22 points. John commented, “This is our first full season with a steady crew, and we feel like we’re learning how to sail the boat.” Jay Cross, Ben Kinney, and Hannah Swett’s Members Only showed great speed and perseverance, taking third overall with 30 points. In fourth was team Sertl on Das Blau Max, with the most consistent scoreline of all teams, throwing out an 8th place with a total of 35 points. Close behind with 39 points was Peter McClellan’s Gamecock. 📸 Morgan Kinney / IC37 Class Association Like all one designs, time in the boat was vital. All boats in the IC37 fleet are set up identically, so it’s up to the crew to adapt to changing conditions and how that affects each role. Here are some tips to help you at your next event: Communicating boat speed out of tacks. The main trimmer can communicate this to the crew so they know when the boat is up to full speed. This helps the helmsman know when to put the bow down, and allows the runner and the jib trimmers to coordinate trimming efforts. This is not only crucial to starts but can be big in port/starboard crossing situations. Get familiar with your mast settings. Adjusting the mast shims is crucial for maintaining boat speed and set up as conditions change. Depending on how much power you’ll need and the wind speed you add or remove the mast shims which control shroud tension and headstay. If the headstay tension isn’t right you’ll have a hard time going upwind at full speed. Boat Handling & Crew Communication. From the beginning of the race to the end, there should be constant conversation about what is happening. Mainsail trimmer communicates to the runner trimmer when more power (or less) is needed. Jib trimmers are listening in, making sure they can adjust leads if needed for more power in the foot, and where they are as far as trim angle with where the leech hits the spreaders. Designating one person to communicate crew weight downwind with wave state was huge and big gains were made on jibes and working up and down on the waves. Congratulations to Chris Culver’s Blazer II for qualifying for the NYYC Invitational Cup which will take place later this year. Big thanks to Moose McClintock, IC37 fleet coach. His support for the class and sailors has been above and beyond. The daily debriefs have been helpful, and the feedback he’s provided to teams on the water has helped elevate the competition and contribute to the class’s success. FULL RESULTS 📸 Melges Performance Sailboats / Beigel Sailing Media READ MORE

Here’s a summary of the differences to help you understand which sail type is best for you. READ MORE

Ken Read dives into sprint sailing, and how to best manage what little time you have to the finish line.  📸 Mirpuri Foundation Racing Team / The Ocean Race First of all, you can really break sailing into three categories: around the buoys or laid marks, sprint sailing, and full blown offshore distance sailing. Around the buoys sailing is everything from your dinghy sailing, weeknight Beer Can racing, TP52 events or America’s Cup. Full blown offshore events are a minimum of three days, in the ocean, mostly away from land. Events like the Ocean Race Europe are classified as “sprint sailing.” But what exactly is sprint sailing and how is it different from the other type of sailing we do? For a lot of us, it’s a fine line between sprint sailing and offshore sailing. So I’ll classify sprint sailing as typically 1-3 days, around a lot of headlands and other natural features that you wouldn’t find in the middle of the ocean. With sprint sailing you have to manage your time and you have to tweak a crew to really be able to withstand lack of sleep. It’s all about not losing a meter when the opportunity comes and gaining a meter when the opportunity presents itself. In this type of sailing, very often races are won and lost by very small distances. 📸 Sailing Poland / The Ocean Race I personally think that sprint sailing is as hard or in some ways harder than full blown distance racing. And the reason is simple: You can’t really find your rhythm. You can’t find a good watch pattern and sleep pattern so you can replenish your batteries. In these short races, often you do it with very, very little sleep. And when the sleep that comes, it comes due to true exhaustion. Therefore, as soon as you start to wake from your sleep, you’re panicked that you’ve missed something really important because, frankly, in sprint sailing, those little things are really important. Building a crew around sprint sailing is probably a little different as well. In our last article here, we talked about the need for fixing things and having a crew who is very adaptable to several different types of boat maintenance or types of jobs on board a boat. Well, in sprint sailing, you really can’t afford to slow down and fix things. So you’re either full bore, 100% or you’re not. Which makes it even more about speed and trimming and navigation than your typical offshore racing. Finally , sprint sailing is reliant on navigation and often local knowledge; how and when to use the shoreline, how and when to use sea breeze, how and when to get away from shorelines and sea breeze. Local knowledge might affect a race course too, especially around headlands. And then of course, current and how current affects the race course. Because again, you’re going around places where current is probably far more of an opportunity or deterrent than what it would be in the middle of the ocean. 📸 11th Hour Racing Team / The Ocean Race I personally think it is really hard and that’s why I love it so much. The double handed sailing that I did this past summer on Alchemist was classic sprint sailing, where you really just couldn’t sleep. Not only were you under manned onboard the boat, but the race was going to be short enough that any meter you could gain was a good meter. For the Ocean Race Europe, my final thought is that quite a few of these teams are using this event as a try out for the main event next year—around the world. This sprint sailing is a bit of a teaser for what an individual sailor or entire team is like on board the boat. With a three day race, you start to get a good feel about what a crew person is going to be like for the long haul, out in the middle of the ocean when the chips are down or when things are good. And it’s a great opportunity for the skippers and team leaders of these programs to get a feel for who is good at what. However, they have to remember that this is still a sprint and that it is a different world once you get out, offshore, in a 20-plus day leg. I guess at the end of the day, a little bit of an interview, no matter how short the time may be on board the boat, is better than nothing. Linked Out / The Ocean Race READ MORE

NPL TOUR Day Sailing vs. Coastal vs. Bluewater One of the many great things about sailing is the ability to choose how long you want to be out on the boat. Day sailors prefer to sleep on dry land, while coastal cruisers might go off for a weekend or even longer. Bluewater sailors like to get away from land altogether, some for as long as they can. Free time and sailing experience do play a big role in determining the type of sailing you do; often, beginners start off as day sailors and increase their time on the boat as their skills improve. Though a wide variety of sailboats could be adapted to fit any of these time-based sailing specialties, some will obviously be better qualified than others for each one—especially if you’re looking to head offshore. The same is true of your sail inventory. For maximum enjoyment, it’s important that both boat and sails match the time frame you choose, which is why the North Sails cruising experts put together the following summary of what you’ll need for each type of sailing adventure. Best Equipment for Day Sailing Cruising daysailers are typically 25-40 feet long, though there are some purpose-built models as big as 50 feet. Day sailing is a great starting point, because it prioritizes a relaxed time on the water without the added challenges of darkness or bad weather. Most daysailers have a fairly simple sail plan that includes a mainsail and jib or genoa. These can be built of NPC Cross-Cut materials. (If your boat is one of the recent performance daysailer designs, you may want to step up to 3Di OCEAN. Struggling with sail handling? Consider adding a furling system for jib, main, or both. NPC CROSS-CUT Best Equipment for Coastal Cruising Coastal cruising boats need enough cabin space for the crew to sleep comfortably and have bad-weather shelter, so they are generally in the 30-55 foot range. Both boat and sailors need to be ready for a wider range of weather conditions, as well as the occasional after-dark arrival, and both increase the focus on efficient sail handling systems. You’ll also need a sail inventory that can handle winds over 25 knots. We have several sail materials that match this type of sailing, including NPC CROSS-CUT or Radian, NPL TOUR, and 3Di OCEAN. The key is to match the sails to your boat and preferred type of sailing. If you’re heading south for the winter, Radian will provide the best combination of longevity, durability, and ability to handle high heat and UV. For performance cruisers, 3Di Ocean is a great fit. Your local North expert can help determine which materials would best match your boat and cruising plans. 3Di ENDURANCE, the racer/cruiser crossover. Best Equipment for Bluewater Sailing Bluewater boats and crews will sail away from the conveniences (and stresses) of shore life for many days at a time, so they need to be fully self-sufficient. Purpose-built bluewater cruisers are generally larger than 40 feet, with sail-handling systems designed to handle any kind of weather. For a bluewater sail inventory the priority is durability, because despite the worldwide coverage of North Sails lofts, there’s no off-season—repairs will always slow down the next voyage. UV is also a big concern. Dyneema has very high strength and toughness, and our NPL TOUR ULTRA paneled sails have been setting the bluewater standard for many years. 3Di ENDURANCE is a great crossover option that provides both offshore durability for cruising and high-level racing performance. 3Di OCEAN will provide performance without sacrificing durability, which is the best option for cruising sailors. To figure out the best materials that will help you achieve your bluewater dreams, talk to your local North expert. Bottom line– no matter what upwind sails you choose, you will not be disappointed. 3Di OCEAN Easier sailing Whether you’re a first-time day sailor or a seasoned offshore cruiser, there are many innovations that will help make sail-handling easier. Mainsail luff track systems, inner forestays for heavy weather jibs, and small bowsprits for setting downwind sails are all increasingly common in harbors and marinas around the world, because they reduce the time and aggravation in changing sails. For day sailing and coastal cruising, furling jibs are standard. More and more boats are adding furling or full-batten mainsails as well. Another innovation that can help ease mainsail stowage is the Quickcover. As the name suggests, it’s a cover that’s always right there when you need it—and that means a longer lasting sail, because you won’t forget or find it too much trouble to protect your investment from UV. Another addition that will help your downwind enjoyment is a cruising gennaker, along with a snuffer to make it easier to set and douse. Helix Furling Gennaker Increasing your boat’s possibilities If you are a day sailor who aspires to coastal cruising, another important upgrade would be to add an inner forestay for a second jib. Another great addition is the Helix Furling Gennaker. It combines the power of an asymmetric spinnaker with the convenience of a Code Zero. Hoist it once and you have an easy-to-fly sail that will take you to that next harbor fast, even when your apparent wind angle is too far aft for your Code Zero reacher. Plus, this new gennaker is top-down furling, giving you a tight, neat furl that protects the sail.This addition will add versatility to your sail plan and allow you to carry less sails onboard. If you are a coastal sailor who aspires to head offshore, there are several sail upgrades we recommend. You’ll definitely need a heavy weather jib, a storm jib, 3 reefs in your mainsail, and at least one versatile downwind sail that can be furled. Reefing the main will be easier if you add mainsail luff tracks and cars. For longer-distance downwind cruising, we recommend either a Tradewind or a Helix code sail on a furler. Sailing is a lifestyle, and many of our customers who started out as beginner day sailers are now off on life adventures, cruising the world. Whether you’re keen to do more day sailing, go off on a coastal cruise, or head offshore to bluewater, the most important key to an enjoyable cruise is to have the right boat—and the sail inventory of your dreams.   FIND A CRUISING EXPERT REQUEST A QUOTE   Tradewind READ MORE

The first thing to always talk about when going offshore is, what are the rules? They’ve created fantastic rules to be incredibly inclusive for people who may not otherwise have a chance to join high-profile sailing teams. READ MORE

HOW TO: SPINNAKER ZIPPER SYSTEMS A Smoother, Cleaner, Quicker Hoist 📸 Paul Wyeth When it comes to hoisting your spinnaker, there are some details to consider that make everyone’s life easier (or harder). Angle off the wind is often underestimated and this can cause issues when the kite is hoisted too soon. Especially in heavier air, sneaking the halyard is really just to clear the head so it can freely go up in front of the spreaders as soon as the boat turns down around the windward mark or offset. If the kite is fully hoisted before the boat turns down, you can count on a broach or altercation if there is a boat close to leeward trying to make a mark. In a perfect world, the spinnaker is pre-fed, tack out, and the head flows freely, clear from the rigging and the jib or genoa, and as soon as the boat turns down it’s a game of who can ring the bell the fastest. Why use zippers? Zippers help keep the kite contained, making it easier to sneak and hoist your spinnaker. As the kite goes up, the zippers hold it together so it doesn’t fill, allowing a few more seconds for the mast position to get it fully hoisted. Zippers help keep the foot and the tack of the kite neat and tidy too, which your bowman will appreciate. The head is easier to bring forward if the kite is properly zipped, which will guarantee a smooth, clean hoist that can even help set you up for an immediate jibe if needed. Older systems used velcro bands, woolies or rubber bands. They worked, but didn’t hold as long and after time would fail and the debris would be lost overboard. Having zippers instead of bands is a great way to simplify things and help keep trash out of the ocean. In offshore racing, it’s mandatory–as it should be. Here are the steps you should take when properly setting up your kite zipper system. After the take-down, hook the head to the inside of the bow using a carabiner or slip knot. This will help hold the sail in place and make it easier, as you’ll be below deck while the race is still on! From there, gather the material between the zipper sides like they are a hotdog bun, and feed the zipper onto the track (the same as zipping up your jacket, making sure the two zipper ends are even). As you work your way down, very carefully run your finger along the underside of the zipper car to keep the spinnaker material out of the teeth. This is imperative as catching in the zipper will tear the material! Once you get to the end, hold it together with one hand and pull the zipper off the track. Then use the fixed velcro strap to temporarily secure the zipper from unzipping, by pulling the velcro across and pressing it down to secure it. Once the velcro retainer is in place, gently break the zipper end so under pressure it will naturally unzip. Use this same technique on the foot, making sure to keep tension on the material as you work your way towards the clew. This will keep it from bunching up and not fitting in the zipper. Once you are zipped, remove the zipper car and store it on the spinnaker bag, or below deck on the carabiner, ready for the next douse. You can pack the kite easily now that the spinnaker is more manageable. It sounds easy, and generally it is! But keep in mind you’ll be doing this as soon as the kite comes down and some boats don’t have a ton of headroom. You also may be doing this alone. Hooking up the head so you don’t have to hold, feed and zip at the same time is very helpful. Practicing this method and timing yourself is a great place to start. Depending on how long the upwind leg is, you may be strapped for time. Getting comfortable using the zipper method and being able to do it on your own puts you on the fast track to becoming a great bowman. Pro Tip: If the breeze is up and weight on the rail is necessary, try to position yourself down below so you are on the same side as your teammates. READ MORE

THE KEY TO UPWIND PERFORMANCE Dynamic Tuning with North Expert Charlie Cumbley & Cyclops Marine With the help of smarttune load sensors from Cyclops Marine, North Sails One Design Expert, and J/70 World Champion Charlie Cumbley explains how the dynamic balance of upwind performance hinges on forestay load. Click here to learn more about how smarttune can boost your performance, or inquire at info@cyclopsmarine.com. Find your local North Sails expert for any sail-related inquiries or questions. FIND YOUR LOCAL EXPERT READ MORE

CUSTOM SAILS: WHAT GOES INTO THEM? Every Sail is Designed to Match Specific Customer Requirements 📸 Paul Wyeth All North Sails are designed and built to match the specific customer requirements. According to our Director of Design and Engineering JB Braun, the result is that each sail made in a North loft is custom and personalized to your boat and sailing style. “As much as we would like to compartmentalize them into some type of standard feature or standard item to try to reduce the costs… the reality is, all the sails we build are custom.” Why does North put so much time into each and every sail? Because each and every customer and boat is slightly different. That’s why we’ve taken all the knowledge acquired from building high-end race inventories and let it trickle down to our cruising customers, because you, too, deserve a sail that perfectly fits both your boat and your sailing plans. A custom sail design unique to each boat and sailor The seamless collaboration between the sales and design teams at North is what makes such customization possible, JB explains. “The sales consultant works with the customer to define their goals and objectives. That information goes directly to the designer, who also takes into account the boat’s displacement, righting moment, sail area, type of sail, etc.” How the customer interview influences the sail design North Sail expert Mark Sadler says that initial discussion with the client is the most important step, because it helps him to establish exact requirements. “The next most important thing is being sure the design team has a clear understanding of the requirements and can feed back solutions.” North Sail expert Hugues Destremau starts by asking what kind of sailing you intend to do. Your questions back to him might be more specific: “Why is this material better than this one? Which color will my sail be? How long is it going to last?” For help, he reaches out to the design team. The designer recommends a product tier and specific material, and clarifies any unique details. You might even specify a desired “sweet spot” for a sail. JB gives an example; “I want the range of the sail to be 12 to 18 knots, and I want it to be the best at 14 knots.” All of that information is entered into the order. Next, the designer creates a model of your boat on-screen and chooses the closest option from North’s extensive sail design library. Narrowing down to what’s best from a vast database of virtual shapes is why the sail consultant is so valuable, JB explains. “Their experience with the product, their experience as a sailor, their experience with the customer is a huge value to North.” The designer uses that additional input to decide on an exact design direction. “Once we’ve done that, a customized design pops up on screen with all the details in it. The result of all that work is a sail design uniquely set up for your boat and sailing style.” 📸 Jeff Brown Capturing the final details In addition to basic dimensions and shape, the final design includes all the sail information the production team will need: the number and placement of battens and reefs, choices like bolt ropes or slides, and potential chafe locations (lifeline stanchions, pulpits, etc). The information gathering and design process are exactly the same whether you order a 3Di or paneled sail; it’s only once the sail starts the manufacturing process that the two types diverge. “If it’s a paneled sail”, says JB, “the panels will be laser cut and manufactured to the three-dimensional shape. If it’s a 3Di sail, the material is laid onto a three-dimensional mold and then vacuum-bagged and thermoformed into that customized shape, with all of the reinforcing details and additions that were ordered by the customer.” Better Value with a North Custom Sail “Selling each and every customer a custom sail provides the best value in the long run,” JB says. “And North customers get an unbelievable deal when they buy sails because we guarantee a perfect fit that will lead to a better experience on the water. We have always gone about the design, engineering, and manufacturing to make it the best that we possibly can, period—and then we figure out how to do it cost-effectively. Our sails are far from the normal, stereotypical design, because that’s not how we do things. It is a unique process—and a better value for the customer.” 📸 Robert Bateman Photography How to spec your perfect sail Choosing a custom sail inventory that’s right for you and your boat might seem overwhelming at first. Fortunately, boat size and your sailing plans will quickly narrow down what tier of materials will be the best match. From there, your sail consultant will work with you to fine tune the details, based on the intended use. “If someone is totally into durability, they’ll be steered toward our 3Di ENDURANCE line,” JB says. “If they’re totally into performance, 3Di RAW will be their best option. If they’re in the middle, we have products for that too.” Another way sail consultants ensure a perfect match is by actually measuring your boat—even if it is already in the design library. “A customer might have added more rake or have a different furler. One person wants a higher clew, the other a lower one.” And if you’ve had a sail built by North since 1990, JB can almost guarantee it’s in the database. 📸 Cate Brown Future designs built to a perfect fit Another process the North Design Suite makes possible is to design and build sails for boats that don’t exist yet. “I’m working on one project that won’t launch until 2023,” JB says. Designing sails for a not-yet-built boat makes it possible to optimize the entire aerodynamic package by including input from the customer, hull and mast designers, and project manager. “Everyone works together to satisfy the objectives of the client. It’s a circular process; you design a hull, mast, and sails—that’s one design cycle. Does that performance meet our objectives? Maybe the hull needs to be lighter. So you go through the design cycle again.” JB is old enough to remember a less scientific approach to sail design. “Years ago, it was much more of a gut feel because you didn’t have as much information. We’re lucky to be able to run these simulations and come up with answers virtually. You don’t ever have all the answers, but you have many more pieces to the puzzle to make informed decisions, which leads to much better accuracy.” Still in awe After more than two decades with North Sails, JB still marvels at the level of detailed attention that goes into each and every sail order. “The whole thing is an unbelievable process when you think about it. I don’t think everybody realizes what’s going into these sails—it’s just amazing. There aren’t many industries that have the ability to customize a three-dimensional object!” And it’s not just the details that impress him—it’s the final result. “I just look at these sails and I’m always in wonder of them—it’s a fantastic product. Big boats, little boats—we have all different products that are engineered and designed to satisfy the goals and objectives of each and every client.” Custom sails? Yes, every single one.   REQUEST A QUOTE TALK TO AN EXPERT 📸 Stuart Pearce READ MORE

Correct Tension Allows for Best Sail Shape and Improved Boat Speed 📸 João Costa Ferreira / Vilamoura Sailing The North 470 mainsail comes standard with a black flex plastic rope for the bolt rope (luffrope). Due to its great flexibility, the cunningham works efficiently to make the sail shape control easier, compared to the fiber bolt rope used before. Please read the instructions below carefully to set up the mainsail properly for the best shape and performance. The bolt rope is fixed into the lufftape of the mainsail with some pre-tension applied during manufacture. Because of the elasticity of the bolt rope, you need to have some cunningham tension at all times to keep the main tack position where you will have the correct amount of wrinkles along the luff. The amount of wrinkles makes a significant difference in sail shape. Control the cunningham tension according to the examples showed below. In conditions above 11-12 knots of wind, you can use cunningham as usual. Important: The bolt rope stretch is affected by heat, sometimes significantly when sun exposure is strong. For this reason, it is important to check and adjust the initial setup of the bolt rope tension. If the bolt rope is elongated by UV exposure, the tack corner will fall down and sometimes the luff is stuck above the boom. In this case, you need to take a few stitches off to pull the rope out of the luff to allow more tension, so that the tack corner is lifted up roughly 10-12 cm above the lower band on the mast.   Hoist the mainsail up to the blue band (see left photo). The tack corner should be set high enough, above the lower band (right photo). Cunningham On When the cunningham is on, you will get a crease between cunningham grommet and tack corner (like image below on left). Pull the tack down to flatten it. If the area between the cunningham grommet and the tack is not flattened, you cannot measure the proper height of the tack corner, thus you cannotfind the proper position for your settings. We also recommend placing a thickplastic tape at the bottom edge of the opening groove to avoid the bolt rope getting stuck when cunningham is pulled on. With the tape in place, the edge of the bolt rope will slide out without friction as soon as controls are eased anad pressure is in the sail. Tack Down – Proper Setup The tack corner is set at 2-3 cm distance from the upper side of the color band. Keep 2 cm offset from the back face of the mast. Pull the tack rope down so that the area between the cunningham grommet and tack is smoothly flattened. If wind is light, you may need to help it down manually. READ MORE

SPECIALTY REACHING SAIL GUIDE Options For All Angles Wind Seeker This is a very light sail for drifting conditions. Used when a full size, heavier weight sail will not pressurize or remain stable. Wind Seekers are commonly made in forgiving cloth to handle slatting conditions and designed to sheet at or near the shroud base, to make tacking and sheeting in zephyrs easier. Jib Top A Jib Top is a high-clewed overlapping headsail for beam reaching in medium to strong winds. Conventional headsails are designed with a lower clew, which is optimized for close-hauled sailing. As you ease the sheet of a conventional headsail and bear off, you lose control over the leech. This sail is shaped to tolerate the extra twist that results from easing the sheet while not being able to hold the lead down and out, due to deck limitations. The Jib Top design is designed to sail wider apparent wind angles while still allowing the trimmer control over the twist and leech profile of the sail. The sail is usually sheeted using the spinnaker sheet, which is “tweaked” to the deck using an adjustable purchase system. The Jib Top is a faster sail on a reach than a conventional low-clewed Jib or Genoa. Blast Reacher A Blast Reacher is a non-overlapping sail, similar in concept to the Jib Top. Used in heavier wind than the Jib Top, or in place of a Jib Top on boats that do not carry overlapping headsails. Genoa Staysail The Genoa Staysail is a small jib (often furling), which is set inside the fore-triangle and used for reaching in more than eight knots of wind. The primary purpose of the Genoa Staysail is to add power and speed to the boat when reaching by helping to counteract weather helm. It provides more balance on the helm when it’s set inside a Genoa, Jib, Code Zero, Jib Top or even the A5. The helmsman uses less rudder angle, resulting in a higher average boat speed than with a staysail. The Genoa Staysail is most commonly used with a Jib Top or Jib sheeted on an outboard lead from 40 degrees apparent wind angle. Once the jib car goes outboard, or is re-led to the rail, the Genoa Staysail can generally slot into the gap that results with good effect. The Genoa Staysail can also be used in combination with a Code Zero or fractional A5 when faster boat speeds will move the apparent wind angle forward and load the helm. The Genoa Staysail is a very versatile reaching sail and is definitely worth taking into consideration for any offshore sailing. Some boats will use a dual purpose Storm Jib / Genoa Staysail. Spinnaker Staysail A Spinnaker Staysail is a small high-clewed furling sail used downwind with a spinnaker. It is generally used between 10 and 25 knots, hoisted on the jib halyard and tacked just aft of the headstay on the bow. It can also be tacked slightly to weather. These sails are commonly used on boats with either bowsprit configurations or conventional spinnaker poles. The Spinnaker Staysail can also be used as a Wind Seeker when the tack is brought forward to the bow. Mizzen Staysail Typically a close reaching Jib hoisted on the mizzen mast and tacked near the mainmast. This sail may also be a downwind sail from the G Series Gennakers or S Series Spinnakers products. READ MORE

CODE SAILS: WHICH ONE IS BEST? North Experts explain how to decide which Code sail is best for your sailing Even if you already understand what a Code sail is, it might not be clear why there are three different types—or which one will best fit your boat and your type of sailing. First, a quick refresher: Code sails fill the large gap between upwind sails and downwind sails, from about 65° to 135° True Wind Angle. They are free flying with a relatively high clew, sheeted like a spinnaker to an aft lead. In most cases, these sails will be furled when not in use. To cover such a large range in true wind angles, there are three different types of Code sails. Each has a different “sweet spot” – a specific wind speed and angle where it’s most efficient. Code Zero, Code 65, and Code 55 The Code Zero was originally designed to measure in as a spinnaker, with a minimum midgirth of 75% of foot length. Code 65 and Code 55 are named for the geometry of the sail; the number specifies the ratio between foot and mid-girth. For a sail with a foot of 10 meters, a Code 55’s mid-girth will be about 5.5 meters, while a Code 65’s mid-girth will be around 6.5 meters. What is the best code sail for my boat? There’s a lot that goes into that answer. First, your boat’s details are important: weight, righting moment, deck layout, etc. We also need to factor in your preferred type of sailing. Grand Prix racing has extremely specialized requirements, but for club racing and cruising, we can make some generalizations. One way to upgrade your Code sail is to go with a Helix Structured Luff. Helix Code sails are great for both racers and cruisers on any sized boat, as this modern design philosophy produces sails with greater range. Sails with Helix Structured Luff are more versatile than a typical Code sail, and their optimized shape makes them easy to furl, self supporting and forward projecting. Best Code Sails for Racing If you want to boost your racing results, the best sail is probably a Code Zero. Rating rules like ORC and IRC consider it a downwind sail, which means they won’t penalize the extra midgirth. If you often sail tight reaches in light breeze, though, a Code 55 or Code 65 might well be worth any rating penalty. IRC and ORC are both moving toward fairer ratings for Code sails with girths of less than 75%, which increases your freedom to choose the best addition to your racing inventory. Your North Sails expert can give you the latest information and help you identify the best sail for your racing. 📸 Alex McKinnon Photography Best Code Sail for Cruising Whether your cruises last a day, a week, or a year, Code sails are a blessing. Most modern cruising boats have jibs with a very narrow top section. Reaching with a main and jib will leave the boat quite underpowered—an unsatisfying sailing experience. Cruisers require a sail that is easy to handle and safe to operate, so your best choice will be either a Code 55 (if you like to sail high angles in light air) or a Code 65 (if you usually sail deeper angles in stronger wind). For most modern cruising boats, a usual personal favorite is the Code 65. This single sail will cover an incredible range of angles and wind speeds, from 65° in 6 kts true wind speed up to 125° in 16 kts. When paired with a Helix Structured Luff the sail will project forward and to windward for an added performance boost, while providing a safe, reliable and easy furl at the end of your day. Helix Structured Luff is available for all North Sails Code sails, whether cruising or racing. How to set up your boat for a Code sail Code sails attach to the boat in front of the headstay, though the exact location will vary from one boat to the next. If your boat isn’t already rigged for Code sails, make sure to contact your boatbuilder and/or mast manufacturer to evaluate the loads. On race or club race boats, you may want to fly both jib and Code sail at the same time; you should have a tack point that’s far enough forward to get good separation between the two. For cruising, you can either attach the tack to the stem fitting or rig a short sprit. Need help picking the best Code sail? If you’re still uncertain about what your next Code sail should be, contact your North Sails expert. We can help analyze your specific needs and figure out the best type of Code sail for you.   Contact an Expert Learn More Request a Quote   📸 Ian Roman READ MORE

J/24 RACING TIPS FOR ALL CONDITIONS Racing Takeaways: The 2021 Midwinter Championship 📸 Chris Howell The 2021 Midwinter Championship in Miami, FL supplied a variety of conditions for the 29-boat fleet. North Experts with the help of Midwinters skipper John Mollicone broke down each race day by wind speed and explain the changes they made with their rig tune, body weight, crew roles, and sail trim. Although the racing took place in Florida, these tips can be related to any regatta coming up depending on wind conditions and sea state. Tips for light to medium air: 6-10 knots Tiny bit of weather helm in under 6 Consistent heel angle, always Send one or more down below to get low in chop More heel helps you stay powered up in flat water in the lightest winds Avoid getting close to other boats to eliminate chop and disturbed air 20/15 shroud tension Move the mast butt aft ⅜” Look for -3 fingers on the headstay 2.25 to 2.50 inch pre-bend on the mast Stay powered up and avoid the lulls! 📸 Chris Howell In lighter conditions, the trimmer should stand down below and be agile and able to move up to the rail as the wind picks up. The trimmer controls the angle of heel the most. Two forward crew are last to go below if needed, but keep weight forward in light conditions. Skipper/Trimmer Tips for lighter air: Trim the main in hard, two handed when fully powered up so you can point a little higher, 8 to 10 knots range with everyone hiking Trim the genoa 2-3” off the spreader tips when fully powered up, ease to 4-6” off spreader tips in the lulls. Move the genoa car one hole forward to power up the bottom of the jib. North Expert Paul Abdullah commented on trim, “I like to move off the rail and move forward. When I look at other boats who have their trimmers on the leeward side by the winch, it’s not long before we are sailing right by them. Body placement is key for the trimmer in light air. I avoid sitting to leeward by the winch, if your weight needs to be to leeward it is better to do that below deck.” 📸 Chris Howell Trimming the Genoa: Medium to Heavy Air “It is a common misconception to trim harder in more breeze, said John. This is not a solution. You actually point higher by easing out, sometimes a full foot off the spreader tip. If you see 8” off the spreader tip it’s not a bad thing if things are working for you.” How can you tell? If the boat feels good, your speed is good, and you are playing the main and vang sheeting in the puffs, you will be in good shape. Skipper and trimmer should work together with sail trim. Never let the boat heel over too much. When you feel bound up, ease the genoa 5-6” off the spreader tips. Easing off the backstay will also help get your power back in the major lulls with the rig tight. Rig tuning tips: Medium to heavy air When you move your mast, 2 to 2.25” of prebend is always a good starting point. Headstay tension should go from 3 fingers to a tight 2 fingers. Having your backstay set up so you can move through a wider range is important. “The mast butt on J24 is a powerful tool,” said North expert Nick Turney. “When the breeze increases you need to feel comfortable moving your mast. Ideally you move the mast at the dock before you leave. When you don’t make necessary adjustments to rig and mast, you will notice that you are losing punch. If your main is flattened too much, this is a direct indicator that your settings are not aligned.” 📸 Chris Howell Tips for Breeze On and building: 13-18 knots 27/24 shroud tension When the wind builds, go plus 1/plus 1 – stick to full turns if possible. It’s easier to keep track. Moved mast butt forward, ⅜ to ½” depending on age and stiffness of mast and boat. If the lulls are big, you’ll need power. 27/24 is great for lulls and only a tad loose in the puffs. The North Sails tuning guide is a great place to get your set up numbers. Mainsail set up is important, especially in bigger breeze. If you notice wrinkles from all the clew up towards the spreaders at a 45-degree angle, this is a telltale sign that you need to go tighter on the rig, sometimes an up plus 1/plus 1 can help get your main looking better, which in turn allows it to work better. You will be able to pull on more backstay, and cunningham. The cunningham for example is not easily adjusted from the rail, so we minimized how much we moved our bodies because we needed weight out mostly, we would leave the cunningham as-is and ride it out. Another thing that is crucial is crew weight. Keeping it together and close makes hiking more effective. With the mast settings the same as medium air conditions, it allows for depth in the mainsail while keeping the backstay tight. Weight aft together hiking hard is a good look. When changing gears, it’s important to define your modes and make adjustments. It’s very important to stay powered up and transition through the modes. Ask yourself: “What mode do we want to be in?” Height mode, normal mode (balanced and going well through the water), Or fast mode What are the changes you have to make in the back of the boat to accomplish the different modes? Trimmers typically call the speed, the tactician may override in certain instances. The driver has the mainsheet and backstay, the trimmer adjusts the genoa sheet accordingly, it’s a constant dialog. Together you are always making sure the boat is going full speed. If you feel like the boat is stuck ease the sails out and get it going again. When the boat stalls the boat goes sideways. “In Miami for the Midwinters,” John commented, “5.4-5.6 was our normal boat speed. We had our bow down, and our backstay on. We looked more for 5.8 to 6.2 on our velocitek once we got going. It’s nice to gauge where you want to be and see what that feels like.” 📸 Chris Howell When should we switch to the blade? Start out with the genoa if you are on the fence. Try moving the mast butt ⅜ to ½” forward, which is a conservative move. Make sure your tension is adequate. In medium breeze 29/31 could work well depending on the age and stiffness of your mast. Ask yourself: Can we go upwind without the main flogging? Does the boat feel balanced? Are we slipping sideways? Is our speed a problem? If things are out of balance, speed is a struggle, and your main is flogging, then it may be time to switch to the blade. Paul Abdullah commented, “Understanding the ability of your trimmer is the real question. If you cannot tack the genoa efficiently, then you have your answer.” The blade is good if the conditions are right for it. The genoa gives you the power and punch for getting through waves. The blade can be sufficient enough if breezy and flat water. When you are on the edge of the blade in 14-16 knots, you might need to consider a step down on the shrouds and jib lead forward to power up the Jib. Keep in mind, using the genoa at the top end of the wind range means you have to pull the halyard on harder, move the lead back one as you go tighter on the shroud tension. “On a shifty day with flat water, the blade could be the best weapon of choice. It varies for every team, so you have to do what is best for you, depending on what you are comfortable with,” said John. 📸 Chris Howell Upwind strategy Find the pressure Set yourself up for the long term play Get into the pressure before making a decision on your next move It’s OK to hang in a thin lane as long as its the long tack Try to figure out what the long tack is before the start so you can position yourself on the starting line It can be a high risk to win the pin and you might not be able to tack so you have to recognize that early on Choosing the midline works well if the pin is crowded. It can also open doors later on up the beat. Minimize your maneuvers Tacking with the genoa in mid-range conditions will result in ¾ boat length loss. Chop and puffy conditions tacks are costly using the genoa especially. We made sure our tacks counted. If we wanted to make a tactical decision, we made sure we were in the best pressure first. Downwind Strategy Balance crew weight Get around the windward mark and ask yourself: do we want to stay high or go low? After the offset, are we jibing early? All things should be openly discussed as the pole is being put on and you have almost arrived to the offset. Steer clear of potential issues Identify: Is there anyone around us? Are we playing defense? Recognizing scenarios early and talking about it is the key to a successful windward mark rounding and setting up for a good downwind. 📸 Chris Howell Settling in for the Downwind Leg After the kite is set, it’s important to get settled in. Depending on location, remember to check for weeds. If it’s windy, send the lightest person back to do this. It is hard to drive and check for weeds, especially in heavier air conditions. Crew weight Downwind Changes with weight will help steer the boat. The trimmer and driver are mostly in the same spots all the time downwind. Driver plays the main, sits to leeward. Trimmer stands up on the deck to trim. Tacticians can take the guy and face outboard to help trimmer. If it lightens up, the tactician would go below but generally stands in the companionway. Bow guy went side to side as needed, twings could also move with bowman as both are more agile. Keep your weight outboard out to the sides. Keep the boat flat so if the wind increases, there is no risk of the driver losing steering due to instability. If it is super windy you may consider two forward crew sitting to leeward to help balance. “Weather heel downwind pole back is my favorite,” John said. “It’s fast.” 📸 Chris Howell What Gate to Choose? Find the path of least resistance. Figure out which side is lifted, and try to round the side that allows you to immediately be on the long tack. Ask yourself: where’s the competition and where is there less traffic? Tips for Breezy Conditions Downwind Bring both twings down, especially on the jibes. Stacking the leeward (bow and mast) rail is a huge weapon in breeze downwind. Too much weather heel is out of control. Vang on- be all over it. You need more than normal if it’s breeze-on conditions. Backstay on just a little for stability. Broad reach more, don’t sail DDW in puffs or by the lee if things are getting dicey. 📸 Chris Howell For the Miami Midwinters, the winners used North Sails Fathead mainsail, DX-7TT Genoa, SRB jib, and FR2 spinnaker. Have questions about optimizing your inventory? Get in touch with a North Sails J/24 expert today. Thank you Chris Howell for your support of the class on and off the water! Miss the Midwinters Full Webinar Recap? Rewatch and rewind at your own convenience! Watch Webinar READ MORE

North Sails expert Brian Janney explains why choosing a spinnaker means understanding your own sailing style. READ MORE

NORTH SAILS RELEASES NEW J/70 TUNING GUIDE New J/70 Designs, New Tuning Recommendations After countless hours of sailing, testing, and competing in the J/70 fleet, our experts have updated the North Sails Tuning Guide. This guide is your go-to for recommendations and tips that will make it easy to get you up to race-winning speed with our World Championship winning sails. As we learn more about the J/70, we update information surrounding boat setup, tuning, and trimming techniques. “With the introduction of the new sails to the J/70 inventory, the XCS-4 mainsail and J-2+ Jib, we revised the entire tuning guide making it easier to be followed. Two new Quick Tuning Charts were added; Rig Tension and Jib Trim, as well as new rake recommendations,” said Class Leader and current World Champion, Ruairidh Scott. The Tuning Guide is a recommended starting point based on what we learned on the water. We encourage teams to explore and adjust the recommendations based on sailing style and preferences. And as always, contact your North Sails expert for all the most up-to-date information and for help tuning your boat. OPEN TUNING GUIDE READ MORE

THE HELIX FURLING GENNAKER: YOUR NEW FAVORITE CRUISING SAIL Expert Bob Meagher explains why you should update your Inventory   In the old days, you had two options for making it to your destination in time for cocktail hour: start the engine, or go below to lug a bulky spinnaker up to the foredeck. Unless you’re on a long enough passage to justify all that work, the diesel will probably be your first choice. Now a new gennaker gives you the best of both worlds. Regardless of whether you sail a monohull, multihull, or superyacht, I’m predicting it will become your new favorite cruising sail. Benefits of the Helix Furling Gennaker The Helix Furling Gennaker combines the power of an asymmetric spinnaker with the convenience of a Code Zero. Hoist it once and you have an easy-to-fly sail that will take you to that next harbor fast, even when your apparent wind angle is too far aft for your Code Zero reacher. Plus, this new gennaker is top-down furling, giving you a tight, neat furl that protects the sail. How Does the Helix Furling Gennaker Compare to a Code Zero or Asymmetric Spinnaker? The Helix Furling Gennaker is much deeper than a Code Zero. When the wind goes aft, release a little halyard or tackline and ease the sheet, and the luff will project out in front of a straight line between head and tack just like an asymmetric spinnaker. If the wind goes back forward again, just snug up the halyard or tack line to tighten the luff and reduce the sail’s depth. How Does the Furling Work for the Helix Furling Gennaker? The advances North Sails has made in structured luff technology and sail design are the key to making this all-new sail type work. Unlike a traditional furling sail that wraps around a stiff and heavy torque cable, the fabric provides most of the structure. A pencil-thin proprietary Helix cable allows for top-down furling without the weight aloft of a traditional cable, and its flexibility eases both handling and stowage. You can leave it up and furled like a Code Zero, and top-down furling makes it far more reliable than a typical bottom-up furl. When sails with large middles or low clews roll from the bottom up, the foot is sucked in first, dragging the clew forward and changing the sheet angle—which sometimes leaves the upper leech loose. Top-down Helix furling wraps securely, and the built-in suncover protects the sail from UV damage at rest (check out this video to see top-down Helix furling in action). When flying, the sail tacks in front of the genoa, but on a catamaran it can also fly from the windward hull, farther away from the mainsail’s wind shadow. Make the Move to the Helix Furling Gennaker From tight reaching to broad running angles, the Helix Furling Gennaker may replace both your Code Zero and your asymmetrical cruising spinnaker. This new cruising sail saves you storage space and money, and leaving it furled and ready to deploy saves aggravation. A single downwind sail you can keep rigged and ready to go, the Helix Furling Gennaker will get you to that next harbor even when the wind shifts. And that’s a lot more fun than starting the engine. Questions about how the Helix Furling Gennaker will work on your boat? Contact your local North Sail expert to decide if this will turn into your favorite downwind cruising sail.   PRODUCT DETAILS REQUEST A QUOTE FIND AN EXPERT     READ MORE

ALL ABOUT DOWNWIND SAIL TRIM Tips for Off-Wind Angles 📸 Lissa Photography Reaching Close Reaching As you bear away from close-hauled to a close reach the forces on the sails rotate forward, speed jumps, and heeling forces are reduced. To make the most of the wider wind angle, retrim the sails for the new course. Ease the jib and, for best performance, move the lead outboard and forward, chasing the clew of the sail with the lead. Keep the halyard firm to hold the draft forward and prevent the back of the sail from becoming too round. If the lead is not moved as the sheet is eased, then the top of the sail will twist open, spilling power, and the bottom of the sail will hook in toward the boat, creating excess drag. With the jib trimmed outboard, ease the main. Keep the vang tight, and ease the mainsheet or lower the traveler. As the main goes out, heeling forces decrease, and the boat accelerates. As the boom goes out, the vang is critical to control twist. As an initial setting, take the slack out of the vang while trimmed for close-hauled. As you turn to a reach and ease the mainsheet, the vang will go taut, preventing the boom from rising and the leech of the main from spilling. When overpowered on a reach, easing the vang will spill power, reduce heel, and balance the helm. Use the telltales to fine tune trim. The leech telltales should be flowing. If the sail luffs, then trim in. Also, ease the outhaul and backstay slightly to add power to the main. On a heavy air “blast reach” keep the main flat, and ease it to half luffing, if necessary, to control heeling forces and weather helm. If still overpowered, then reef. On a close reach, a reefed main and big jib can be an effective sail combination. Beam to Broad Reaching As we bear off more, the boat stands upright. Ease sails, using the telltales to match the angle of attack to your course. On a beam to broad reach, the top of the jib will spill open. Trim to keep the middle of the sail working. Ease the main until it luffs. The main should go way out—out against the rigging if necessary. If the sail doesn’t luff, let it rest against the rig. It won’t hurt the sail or the rig. Keep the boom vang firm enough to hold the top batten of the main parallel to the angle of the boom. Reaching in a beam or following sea can be treacherous, as the boat lurches around. A preventer (a line that holds the boom out) should be rigged to prevent the boom from swinging wildly. Autopilots are at their worst in these conditions, as are human steerers. A spinnaker can add extra power, speed, and stability. Short of that, motor sailing is an option—or consider a new destination. Running Wing and Wing Running dead before the wind under jib and main requires careful steering to avoid an accidental jibe. In light air, it often pays to reach up, sailing with the jib in normal position, as the extra speed will make up for the extra distance. In more breeze, running wing and wing (with the main on one side of the boat, and the jib on the other) can be a very stable way to sail dead downwind. A whisker pole will help the genoa fly much more effectively. The pole should be set with topping lift, afterguy, and foreguy to hold the pole in place. With the pole trimmed to position, the genoa sheet is run and trimmed through the end of the pole. In heavy air there are often following seas, which can make steering a challenge. A poled out jib allows sailing above a dead downwind course, which provides a wider steering lane and reduces the chance of an accidental jibe. To control the main and boom, rig a preventer. The line should run from the end of the boom to a block well forward on the rail, and then back to the cockpit, near the mainsheet cleat. Every time you ease the mainsheet, tighten the preventer. It doesn’t have to be bar-taut – just tight enough to prevent the boom from jumping around. If it’s led this way, the preventer can easily be adjusted or cast off as necessary. Learn more about trimming an asymmetrical spinnaker here. Gennaker Trim Cruising spinnakers or gennakers are remarkable sails for their ability to change shape to match your course and wind angle. By trimming both the tack line and spinnaker sheet, we can transform the sail from a genoa to a spinnaker, and back again. For best performance, a symmetric spinnaker must carry a curl. In contrast, a gennaker will deliver top performance without trimming on the edge of a luff. Ease the sheet until it curls to make sure the sail is not overtrimmed, and then trim just enough to remove the curl. For optimum performance, play the gennaker sheet constantly. (Me? I check it between naps.) Learn more about cruising sail trim here. What’s the difference between a spinnaker and a gennaker? Learn more here. Adjusting the Tack Line It is adjustments to the tack line that allow us to so drastically change the shape and performance of the sail. On beam reaches, keep the tack line snugged down and the luff of the spinnaker pulled firm. The Gennaker assumes the shape of a great reaching genoa. On a broad reach, ease the tack line and allow the tack to lift. Easing the luff lets the Gennaker roll out from behind the mainsail to assume a more powerful spinnaker-like shape. 📸 Marc Turner / CCC Spinnaker Trim There are three initial settings for spinnaker trim and refinements that can further improve performance. For starters: Trim the guy to set the pole perpendicular to the wind. Raise or lower the topping lift so the pole and tack are the same height as the clew. Ease the sheet to curl the luff, and trim to just take out the curl. From these initial settings we can fine tune trim in several ways. Unless it’s very windy, the guy can be trimmed aft further than square to the wind. The goal is to get the luff to run vertically from the shoulder of the spinnaker down to the tack, and to get the shape across the foot to match the mid shape. If the shoulder is rolled out, and the foot is too round, then trim the guy to pull the pole aft. If the foot is stretched flat, and the tack is poking out to windward, then ease the guy to let the pole forward. Learn more about setting a spinnaker here. Pole height can be fine tuned: On a broad reach fly the pole higher, keeping the two corners (clew and tack) even. In fresh breeze beware of flying both corners too high, which lets the spinnaker get too far from the boat and may decrease stability. If the boat is rolling side to side, try lowering the pole, pulling the pole aft, and/or choking down the sheet lead. 📸 Lissa Photography VMG Tip In lighter winds, the key to success is sailing fast angles. Do not sail dead downwind in light air—reach up until you feel some apparent wind from the side. Often the best course may be as much as 40 degrees above straight downwind. You’ll sail extra distance, but you will go so much faster that you’ll arrive downwind sooner, and you’ll have a more enjoyable sail to boot! See also: How to Hoist and Douse a Gennaker READ MORE